Tubes And Liners

Discussion in 'PSI Superchargers Tech Questions' started by KDavidson, Jul 7, 2010.

  1. Will Hanna

    Will Hanna We put the 'inside' in Top Alcohol
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    tubeless

    The tubeless liner set up usually doesn't work unless you have a newer set of weld or american racing wheels specifically set up for tubeless. There are not many people who have had success with convo-pro's running with out the tube. I would plan on running the tube.

    The difference between the Goodyear and Hoosier liner is the Hoosier is designed for the new 2 valve stem set up. The sidewall of the liner has grooves to easily allow air to pass between the tire and liner to air up the 'outer' pressure. To make the Goodyear liner work with the two valve stem set up you have to grind a little off the bead of the tire, then mark the tire where you have cut the bead to allow air to pass. If the tire turns past this section where you have cut the bead, chances are it will be difficult to get air to pass to the outer liner.

    It's going to be a bitch to get the tube on because you are putting a 15" tube on 16" wheels. Dish soap works well to get the tube over the bead, but inspect the wheel very closely for any burrs that will possibly puncture the tube. Also notice the valve stem on the tube will be offset to one side, be sure to get that lined up with the offset on the wheel.

    Once you get it all mounted up, preferably spin balance using weights on both outer and inner (I always recommend this for both beadlocks and liners). Mark the tire and wheel before the first run to monitor tire movement. We generally rotate the tires every 2 to 4 passes, depending on conditions. This helps keep the tire close to the original mark/balance point. If the tire gets much past 7-8" the original mark, then it needs to be re balanced. Yes, in some instances, this happens on the first run if it shakes or sticks the tire hard.

    For what it's worth Weld has a new tubeless liner wheel with a more aggressive knurl where the tire mounts. I made 14 runs with them on Fred Hanssen's car, they didn't move a 1/4 inch.

    From what I gather, when you run the tubeless set up, you basically have to change the liners out with the tires because the liners stretch enough after about 30 runs to let the liner air equalize with the outer tire air.

    I think once you run your car, you'll realize they offer a much wider tuning window to justify the bullshit you have to go through.

    The specs I got from Hoosier are to drill the rim 7/8" of an inch from the inside of the bead with an "I" drill bit, then tap with a 5/16-24 tap. Hoosier can supply the valve.
     
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