Traction Help

While my setup is not in the same league as you guys, I feel that this is as close a forum as I will find to get some help. I cannot get down the track at RT 66 to save my life.

We purchased a 268” slip tube chassis with a 572 alcohol injected big block, power glide, 4:30 rear, with 16.00 x33.00 x 15 Hoosier tires.

We took the car to the local track which does not have the best reputation in the world for hooking (but it’s not a bad place). We made a couple real easy passes, low 8’s, high 7’s. We then ran a 7.43 and a 7.32. Both at approx 184MPH. Took the car home and parked it.

We went to Joliet 2 days after the natl. with the plans to get my advanced ET 6.00 – 7.49. We cannot get past low gear. It breaks the tires loose and wants to move right. We thought maybe the weather had something to do with it, as we had a couple of minor showers that evening while we were there. We decided to pack it up and try a week later. Perfect weather with the same results, expect for the one pass I made leaving in high gear. It ran 185MPH, but only 7.80 et, but did not start to dance around.

I’d like to think it’s as simple as new tires. BUT I ask myself, how can these tires get down what is called a so so track, then turn around and not get down what should be one of the best tracks available to me. 60 ft times at Joliet 1.028 / 1.031 compared to a best of 1.059 before. I really could use some help with this problem.

Thanks in Advance

David

 

This is going to sound like a dumb question but what was the difference in the weather from day to day? Temperature, humidity, barometric pressure?

 

do you have a clutch or converter maybe you have too much frist gear that was my problem in my pro mod but i had tire shake

 

The gear was my first notice also. I run something similar only it's into mid 6's. That 4.30 rear gear would be way off for mine. I'd suggest something closer to 3.89 and in my case I run a 3.70.
That's my thoughts anyway....

 

i have a 285" wb double slip joint BOS dragster that i fought tire shake with. i had to change from a 3.70 to 4.10 rear. i tried goodyears and hoosiers with no luck. i shook everything apart - tach, fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, etc. i found some mickey thompson tires and fixed the problem - they make a set with 114" roll out, 17" wide and made for 16" beadlocks. they are not listed nor do they say mickey thompson on them. they are being used with the TOP PRO OUTLAWS and they work. tires do make the difference.

 

Nick, We questioned the weather the first day at 66, as we has a few brief showers, but the following week was nice. 85* 60% homidity at 8:30 pm.

Blownzr1, it's a convertor with a 6200 stall, leaving at 4500 rpm with a 1.76 glide.

Ron / Low, The car has a proven past. It use to run ( previous owner ) a lot of 1/8 mile (4.50) races with high success. It seems to be more of the tires spining when it shifts then tire shake. I had it shake ( or feel like shake) on one pass when we lowered the shift point to 6900.

Still confused, but not discouraged.

David

 

Dave, 184 with 4.30's. Hmmm. You must be buzzing the sht outta that big block. I don't know how much $$$ you want to throw at the car, but the first thing I'd do is get some 3.89 gears, then some 16" wheels (so you can run a real tire 17X34.5X16). Some classes this year had to switch to bead loks, so you should be able to pick some wheels(non bead-lok) up cheap. And THEN, tighten up your converter about 900 RPM. You might try the wheels and tires first to see where your RPM'S are (Iknow the gears are easier). Lug that bitch down, it's big enough, and it'll probably like it. Lots of torque in a motor like that.

Later