shake vs. quiver

need some education on when car is shaking and when it is quivering. I have shook so hard I could not see before and I have also experienced tire shake followed by washout of grove. Now I know these are obvious tire shake, but sometimes I feel a slight shake right out of gate but 60's are either the same or better than others. I quess this is quivering the tires. Are there way's to prevent this, like raising tire pressure? Does quiver cause loose of traction?

 

you have to get it up on the tires quicker without spinning them several things could fix the problem a 1/4 pound more of air i wouldnt go crazy with air pressure, leaving a little higher on the rpms , maybe a degree of timing im not a pro but i have ran on every kind of track out there in a funny car are a blown altered and i have a clutch car if its happening at the hit its under powered at the hit the key is get it up on the tires as quick as you can but its hard to give advise with out knowing what kind of car and setup you have

good luck

 

Jim is right, if the car is quivering at the hit, It is struggling to get up on the tire.
We started running the Micky Thompson tire 2 years ago and discovered no more quivering or tire shake, even when we were down on power. When we ordered our secon set of tires, I realized that I was running a stiff sidewall tire ( dragster style ). I have always run the softest sidewall all my life as I run a 5 second AA/Fuel Altered on not NHRA prepared tracks most of the time.I have run the Goodyears and Hoosiers prior.
Contact: Carl Robinson at M/T 800-222-9092 He is full of information and extremely helpful.
Ricky Ruiz

 

additional info.

thanks, its a 245" swing arm dragster with the 34.5 M/T (not sure about sidewall but I suppose its the dragster tire). ran 6#'s, then tried 6.25 and helped on the next pass at that track but then went to different track and problem came back. Its a PG setup with 3.90 rearend. engine is 540 bigchief with 871 roots. 1.00 sixties most anywhere.

 

have you ever tried a 4.30 gear? might help with that small blower to get some wheel speed up....just a thought.
Darren

 

yes I had a 4.30 gear in it at first (about 5 races) and it had its best times (6.70 @ 199) and didn't shake. However, it was having .970 60's and I wanted to calm it down to be safer on maginal tracks so I was told when I bought the car it had a 4.10 in it so I bought a 3.90 and then turns out it had a 4.30 but I already had the 3.90 setup and ready so I just stayed with it. Have considered trying the 4.10 but just haven't had time to test be cause don't have a spare chunk so taking it out geting it setup and then testing it to see how it works is a pretty involved task. But hey...isn't racing just another excuse to work on something??

So you guys have made me think more about this and maybe my motor is underpowered to turn such a tall gear causing quiver(basketballing). I will ask crew if this is how they would describe my tracks.

thanks

 

3.90 is a whole lot of gear to pull at the hit i would go back to a lower gear for sure it leaves calmier but is under powered to pull that much gear with the automatic

 

thanks. I have an ACD air cylinder for launch control, but I haven't used it enough to figure out if it is consistant, the few runs I have used it on, seem to make me think it is not consistant, but there are other circumstances also like...the driver. I have an MSD 10, what kind of add on box would I need for launch retard?

Also, something I have been going back and forth on is how can 1.00 60's be "down on power" as evident by shake or basketballing?

THANKS

 

another thing that I attributed to just needing a different torque converter set up but would like your opinion also.

when I changed from the 4.30 to 3.90, not only did I lose bottom end, I also lost MPH (and obviously ET...start slow, end slow). I was expecting to pickup MPH.

 

That big a tire needs power thrown at it to work properly. But I think as you go faster that "swing arm" suspension is go to give you fits finding a happy spot. At this point in your performance you would be better off with a conventional dragster frame.
That's been my observation anyway.

Blessings..........Ron Clevenger.

 

Not enough HP to pull the 3.90 gear.
I agree with Mike and a few others put the 4.30 back in it.
Then use a six shooter if you need to calm the car down on bad tracks.
Another option would be... turn up the blower or a bigger blower
I also agree with Ron C !

 

A different torque convertor setup might help a little, but you would have to run the thing so loose to keep your motor in the power band, you might slow even further.

The gear is tugging on the motor too much, too much load and keeping it out of it's powerband, giving you the under power shake/quiver, but also slowing the car down. You could run the 4.30 all the time and just use a bigger tire for the bad tracks.

 

thanks guys...going back to the 4.30

 

hop the motor up to make horsepower get a timing retard so you can knock a little timing out at the hit then ramp it back in i would use the 4.30 gear mike c. can tell what box will work for you

 

quiver

casey;alot of good advice from our fellow racers,we use to run that same combo and what really worked good for us was staging RPM.the 4.30 gear liked 4800 the 4.11 liked 6000 on M/T or 1490s or hoosier,with a powerglide.good luck hope this helps harry