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Discussion in 'Manton Push Rods Top Alcohol Tech Questions' started by Blown Altered, Apr 25, 2013.
a #6 line would be like peeing through a stir straw.Dave
It doesn't recover when I lift but one time after I lifted I stepped on it again briefly and the pressure began to climb with rpm.
I noticed in your other posts you were considering not running a windage tray. My engine came without one and I had the same problem . Start with 130 psi and oil pressure would fall away into the run. Tried different pumps, New lines, added a accumulator, added more oil, took oil out, changed the system one filter element . Out of frustration I tried a tray in it, And it was a different animal. Now it has rock solid pressure.
What size are ur mains , std or 3"
At my age peeing at all is great.lol.
ya think a #8 then?
It's never been done, or did someone try that?
You wouldn't pump oil to a remote filter with anything less than a -12 under pressure. I can't imagine oil doing much more than dribbling through a -6 or -8.
maybe i didn't explane it right, I ment tap the head at its low'st
point in the front, put a #6 or 8 fitting, atach a hose to it and run it back to the oil TANK.the suction from the tank would pull the oil out of the head? get it?
Eli, this started out as a question about a wet sump--- so where is the tank in this scenario ?
If you can squeeze the pickup line by hand closed... Even a little it is too soft and will collapse under suction at high rpm . Put a hose on it with internal wire support like the other post said ( a one or two wire Hyd hose will work) and use double hose clamps 180 apart on the ends ( get some good hose clamps)
This is where it started
I should have asked mike in a new thred,
Just asking a question becaus he said the
valve covers would get full of oil,
and i tought this was an asswer to that
Is that ok with you?
The oil won't return to the tank because there's pressure there too plus G's . Big hoses from the heads to panrails help because it equalizes the pressure from the crankcase to the heads as much as oil return at low rpm. Some guys even plug the bae return passages because some of them dump right on the crank counterweights. When the crank spins I think it throws oil right into the passenger head.
The bottom line is the crankcase needs to be vented not the rocker covers.
The whole setup is a bunch of bandaids with a wet or so called drysump.
The only cars i've heard of with a real functional oil system on a hemi are legal roots cars with big multi stage scavenge pumps. They need all the power they can get and they are willing to carry a little extra weight.
I don't want the weight on my car and I can't afford to reinvent the wheel so i'm monkey see monkey do like most everybody else with a bae.
Ok so how about running the lines from the back of the head directly to the suction side of the pump. so it sucks out of the pan and the valve covers?
what do you all think of that breather system?
looks like a good option...
I think that could work, but maybye you should have an oil pump with a two-stage suction side.
One stage that just suck oil from the valve covers, and dump it into the pan.
With a standard pump i think there might be some issues if and when there is no more oil for it up in the valve covers, and it starts sucking air.
I almost did the same thing. While investigating I noticed the head gaskets on a BAE block off huge return paths to the rocker covers. I trimmed the gaskets out...flatout sells them BTW. and have a good connection from the lifter valley to the rocker covers.
Legal promod guys are using multi stage scavenging pumps to clear the heads and valley. It's the right way to do it if you can afford the weight.
All good points here -
One thing to look at is the filter element. Even if you have the correct part number, I have seen these become clogged (even after cleaning). Put the element in your parts washer and fill it with solvent. The solvent should flow right out. Once you verify you have the right part (75 micron filter), if it flows solvent, then the filter is not your problem. I have seen an old filter element that was the correct part number become so clogged solvent wouldn't hardly flow out of it.
On the scavenge line, you should run a reinforced hose as mentioned. I sell Goodridge's PTFE hose that is rated to 50 lbs of vacuum. A conventional rubber hose will suck shut causing a lot of problems.
"The oil returns are called that because they return oil on the return road." - Norm Drazy.
When we ran the FWRC 2 stage pump a few years back we actually scavenged out of the lifter valley through the oil fill hole in the back of the intake. This wouldn't be a bad location to vent out of, especially in a dragster.
I didn't think of that. Some one should make a set of see through valve covers and run an engine on a dyno and look and see how much oil is in the cover after a 6 second full pull. Not to mention they would see what is realy going on onside the valve cover?
I had a dream last night, I went to one of those places that print things
And had a set of valve covers made that were see trough.
Think that could be done?
Yes, in order to solve a problem it cant be all wrong to try to find out what is going on in there.
Maybye you could weld in a frame to make a "window" in a valve cover by using a piece of heavy plexiglas the same way a burst panel is fitted on the intake?
On a dyno i guess it wouldnt matter.
I dont know if that would be ok to run on the racetrack, but if so you, then couldnt you use one of these onboard cameras and try to see what is happening?