Front 2 cylinder bearing issue

I think by now you got to know to put the V bearings in it, or you can always shoot your self in the foot

 

What would happen if crew member squirted way too much fuel when starting the car? If the intake valve was open could all the fuel run directly into the cylinder and kill a bearing?

 

It will bend the rod. We had that issue back when I used to drive which required a "procedure" change.

To avoid bending rods, I shoot 2 seconds of fuel on top of the rotors, shut the injector, then while spinning the starter I dribble alky/gas mix from the squirt bottle on the bottom of the injector butterfly (which gets sucked into the blower), count to three and pull the mag wire.

Never fails.

RG

 

I used to run a 451ci bae5 motor with a 1671hh retro littlefield at 50 over in an alcohol dragster, we had a similar problem with 3-4, temps would all show the same, looked safe on the plugs but would start to squash the bearings, only on those cyl and if i tried to apply any timing( anything more than 23 degree's) to the motor it would blacken the skirts on those two pistons only pistons.
My blower was set back around 7 inches so the front of the opening was right above those two cyl, it just appeared to be detonating its brains out on those two cyl only, i figured it was because most of the heat and more of the manifold pressure was seen in those two cyl because they were right under the opening, the reason i had that idea was that those 2 cyl were around 6-8 bigger in the port nozzle than the rest just to keep the temps even.
We only ran the rootes for a few meetings like this and realised we had to go to a screw to be competitive in the class so we never got to play with it to much, but i believe machining the top of those two pistons or slightly shorter rods in those two cyl to reduce the compression would have fixed the problem, just like an early fuel car before set back blowers the front 2 or 4 rods were usually shorter.
I dont think moving the blower back on a std manifold produces all that much of a benefit, some but not that much, to make a set back work properly so that the runners se similar pressure i think it really has to have individual runner much like the fuel manifold that almost look like a single four barrel carb manifold

 

Bearing Squash

All of the suggestions are good value but there is one more thing to consider.
What sort of mag drive? Std or something that is very stiff such as PSI etc?

Crank trigger took away bearing squash because mag drive wasnt stiff enough. In other words a couple of cylinders would se a little more advance but didnt change EGT (not enough time).
Are you using crank trigger?
Cheers
Bob

 

RCD OffSet Mag drive and a Crank Trigger.

 

As others have suggested, up the nozzle size a little more.
Bob

 

i also ran dunn mag drive with leahy crank trigger

 

has anyone tried the MSD 7555 Cam Sync with a 8973 to put some retard in a single cyclinder?

 

We have. It works well. It would almost essentially do the same thing as taking some compression out of it. We used it on 3 cylinders that the screw blower would constantly "pick" on. Same set up, 8973 with the cam sync.

Doug, are you still running some "pop" in the tank with the new car?

 

Yea, I can't seem to get away from it. It is sort of like a blower. Once you go blown you never want to go back. I think its the smell... We are at 30%.