Crank Hub Stuck Any Ideas?

Discussion in 'Manton Push Rods Top Alcohol Tech Questions' started by BEDNAR1320, Jan 26, 2019.

  1. BEDNAR1320

    BEDNAR1320 Member

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    I've been around a long time and been doing my own engines for 30 years, never had a crank hub or balancer that I could not get off until now. BBC dual keyway crank hub, Bryant crank. I've had all the pressure I can put on the puller with a 4 foot breaker bar and even heated it with pressure on it with a torch. It won't budge. It was installed with never sieze. And I know someone is going to ask yes the crank-bolt is out. LOL Anyone have ideas?
     
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  2. kosky racing

    kosky racing Comp Eliminator

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    It welded itself on --lol- you will end up either using a torch or a cut off to get it off-
     
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  3. BEDNAR1320

    BEDNAR1320 Member

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    That's what I was thinking it probably micro welded.....
     
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  4. Bill Masiello

    Bill Masiello New Member

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    I had the same problem with my son's big block Callies crank with an ATI balancer ! We ended up cutting it with a cut off wheel and splitting it at the keyway ! A nightmare to say the least !
     
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  5. BEDNAR1320

    BEDNAR1320 Member

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    Well, I got if off. Pulled the crank and the front cover together. Cut the six ears off the crank hub so I could remove the front cover from the crank. Use a cut off wheel to split the whole length of the crank hub then drove a chisel inin a and split it. Major micro welding on the nose of the crank.
     
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  6. Critical Mass

    Critical Mass Member

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    I had the same thing happen to me with a RCD blower hub. I made puller incorporating a 20 ton bottle jack. It came off, but galled the crank pretty badly. Had the snout redone and crank was good as new.
    Sorry, Joe
     
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  7. BEDNAR1320

    BEDNAR1320 Member

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    This was an RCD hub.....
     
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  8. kosky racing

    kosky racing Comp Eliminator

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    how big is the crank bolt?
     
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  9. TOL

    TOL Active Member

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    one other thing to consider. Take the old crank, and the new crank, and carefully measure the diameters of the snouts. Is there a variance between the two ?.........
     
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  10. BEDNAR1320

    BEDNAR1320 Member

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    Mike, it's a 3/4" bolt.
     
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  11. BEDNAR1320

    BEDNAR1320 Member

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    I will do that.....
     
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  12. BEDNAR1320

    BEDNAR1320 Member

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    Just thinking out loud here, wondering if the snout could be converted to splines?
     
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  13. kosky racing

    kosky racing Comp Eliminator

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    You would have to buy a splined hub crank-even a splined hub can weld-WHAT works is the right bolt and washer combo [automan] torqued to 450#-all problems solved
     
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  14. BEDNAR1320

    BEDNAR1320 Member

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    Automan? I thought that was fuel system stuff.

    450#? 3/4" bolt?
     
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  15. Big Steve

    Big Steve Member

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    And I thought I was having a bad day with pulled rocker stand bolts
     
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  16. BEDNAR1320

    BEDNAR1320 Member

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    Measured my old crank snout, it is .0012 larger than the Bryant crank, think I found the problem......
     
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    shawn likes this.
  17. MaineAlkyFan

    MaineAlkyFan Active Member

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    That would do it! When the new stuff goes together make sure to check the bolt doesn't dead head in the snout threads. We had to make up a custom tool steel washer to prevent this. It looked torqued, but was bottoming on the thread taper at the bottom of the snout.

    Chris Saulnier - Team Tigges
    Mechanic Falls, Maine
     
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  18. BEDNAR1320

    BEDNAR1320 Member

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    I did check that, but not the diameter of the crank snout compared to my old crank. It still pressed on, but I guess it wasn't enough press...…

    Live and learn
     
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  19. aj481x

    aj481x Member

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