best torque converter

Who sells the best converter for a lencodrive/dragster ?

 

coan

talk with walker at coan. they have a good data base for dragster combinations. if you afford it the 2 piece converter gives you more flexiablitiy/tunability. it is worth the extra money up front - you will save $$$ in the long run with this converter.

 

Torque Converter

Try Rod At Spec Rite Converter In Redding Ca 530-243-8300

 

convertor

neil chance
continental both equal in quality,chance has a two piece deal

 

Have had great results with Chance 2 piece , have never broke it and only took it apart once to see what was in it . Have heard good things about coan and trans specialties . If you buy a welded together unit , keep in mind it can only be cut apart so many times .

 

I run a chance bolt together. Excellent converter, great people to deal with, and you're guarenteed top notch quality and technology. Marty don't mess around with something that will just "work pretty good" for your application. Just my 2 cents, if you're looking for 2 more tenths, go with the chance

 

converter

will what is your experience with lencodrive converters. i remember you saying in the past something about sprag or spragless converters. also how hard can you leave on a lencodrive before it either creeps or flashes out and blows the tires off? what can you tell us about using a line lock on the rear brakes with a lencodrive to keep it from creeping? thanks for your input - andy

 

i have to throw in my 2 cents worth on the line-lock deal. been there .....done that, it's a big no-no. we tried it with a clutch, and we also had a cylinder that we used to release the clutch like you would a trans-brake. the problem is the line-lock will not release quick enough, therefore we could never shock the tire and get the car to leave right. we took off the line-lock, and the car left like a rocket. i would expect the same with a lencodrive as well. i just don't think you will be able to get the car to leave right. just my 2 cents

 

the reason i asked about the line lock is because bruno ran one on both his son's dragster and his fiero. he said that a lencodrive/bruno is sitting on the starting line basically in neutral and that they have been known to roll (foreward + backward) causing a red light when trying to leave at rpms over 5000 rpm. i know of several dragsters who run the line lock (not to increase starting line/converter rpms - but to keep the vehicle from moving and thus not red lighting). the logic seems that what you experienced - line lock not releasing quick enough - is correct. i hate to be a follower and run a line lock for a problem (red lighting) that i don't have - but - recently i have gained several hundreths et by leaving harder (over 5400 rpm) but the dragster also creeps on the starting line and leaves some et just like a deep stage. i run a big motor + 800 ci with over 1600 hp but - with over 14oo ft pounds of torque - no blower or nos - just all motor. i believe i've have crossed the line where a lenco/bruno can hold the car but there is et left on the table because it won't hold it. just looking for answers without breaking parts.

 

i wish i could be more help. have you ever thought about playing with the gear? with that kind of torque numbers, i would think that you could play with the gearing a little, and drop the starting line rpm. that's alot of torque for a naturally aspirated motor. i think you could make it work with what you have now, might just take a little trial and error. i am in no way an expert, just telling you what i would try. hope this helps

 

we run a bruno with chance converter in a pro mod, with a blown hemi leave starting line at 5200 rpms havent had any problems with car creeping on starting line, the main problem with bruno is cooking the fluid

 

never had a problem with fluid too hot. always used fluild from cat diesel motor trannys. better viscosity choices and gives better lock up and stable rpms because to doesn't thin out. depending on your combination somewhere just over 5000 rpm on the starting line i have seen many lenco/bruno combinations all but roll the lights or red light.

 

another converter question

i saw some one mentioned continental converters in socal... i have a mike's tranmission vasco/monster glide set up with a continental. i know they are the converter that mike's uses exclusively...

here's my question. anyone with a converter set up ever try leaving in high gear?

 

I lost a pump on my Bruno because I got it too hot. I added a heat sink style cooler and didnt have any problems with it. I also had a line lock wired up to the transbrake button since once you hit the brake you are basically in neutral.

 

Something else that will happen if you get a Bruno hot is that the machined surface underneath the pump will warp. This will cause large inconsistencies in fluid pressure during the run that makes the converter do all kinds of neat stuff which then leads to much head scratching. The fix is to machine the surface back flat, which is not easy because of its depth. I think Bruno has a jig to do this, they have fixed a couple that we have torched.

 

got a tip from the 10.5 racers who use brunos. they can manipulate both their starting line rpm and the down track slipage by using different catapiller (?) hydraulic fluids. they come is various viscosities and as a side effect don't hurt the bruno or the converter. since switching to these fluids i have never seen any high temps on my bruno. another good point to run a temp gauge on the output side (before the cooler inlet) to monitor tranny/converter temps. glad to see someone else uses a line lock with a bruno for purposes of keeping the car from creeping and not to try to raise the starting line rpms.