base and weights

Could any one enlighten me to the reasons for base pressure and finger weights, i have used 2 turns and removed weight, but not realy knowing why except i have been told to
thanks
crower pedal clutch, blown 426, alky, 9 1/2" rear lenco 2 spd
cheers
Gaz

 

whats your rear end ratio? how much weight do you have on the fingers?, how many turns of base total do you have?, two disc or 3? blower type and boost if you know?
what ratio is the low gear? have you got a data logger of any kind?

 

the number of turns equal the amount base pressure (pressure plate pressure ) the weight on the fingers determins how much the clutch slips are where it locks up at someone may have a better explanation this is how i understand it

 

your clutch finger weights work on centrifugal force. By taking off weight you are letting the motor come up a little more in RPM before it locks in. Your springs adjust your stall. We make our adjustments on the stall spings 1/4 turn at a time. On my MRP deal 3 turns is max. and your stall is way up there.

 

Think of Base Pressure as a constant. No matter what the motor does RPM wise, that pressure is always there. The amount of pressure applied with the base kind helps regulate the amount of counterweight you have to run to accomplish a given pressure plate load at any RPM. I like to think of it as what helps get the car moving right at the hit.
So if base pressure gets it moving at the hit, counterweight is what keeps it moving and either helps keep the tire accelerating by drawing the driveshaft closer to the motor as it's adding plate load and the driveshaft accelerates closer to the motor, or if the motor is weak or clutch is overloaded with counterweight, will put you into tire shake/smoke in that 1.2-1.5 second zone because the motor can't accelerate the tire, or over accelerates it!

If the motor flares and dips back down at the hit, you've either got too much bite or not enough base or clutch overall at the hit. If it comes off the line nicely and the motor is able to accelerate until a certain RPM where it drops a bit and cause shake, then its normally a byproduct of too much counterweight. I can't say this rings true every time, sometimes shake is a byproduct of not enough clutch and wheelspeed initially, but in the general sense, there is your explanation.

If your floaters come out blue/purple, the clutch was light... If they come out brown, you're probably just about right for the car's tuneup.

 

This is true for a "glide" style clutch.

 

If your floaters come out blue/purple, the clutch was light... If they come out brown, you're probably just about right for the car's tuneup. [/QUOTE]

Justin,
What if your floaters are like spring washers!

 

Justin,
What if your floaters are like spring washers![/QUOTE]

That's the kind of hurtin' they like!