Barrel vavle

Discussion in 'PSI Superchargers Tech Questions' started by Greco400, Apr 7, 2006.

  1. Greco400

    Greco400 Member

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    Im having troubles with my Barrel vavle leaking by the linkage and im thinking the orings are bad, So i put new in and it still likes Im thinking of getting a new barrel vavle with idle and stageing control or is the K-Style worth the money

    any info/advice
     
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  2. Mike Canter

    Mike Canter Top Dragster
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    It is common for the BV's to leak around the shaft and it only requires about a $7 oring kit from Enderle or I bet RBS also has them. The valve is easy to take apart and fix and unless something is way bad (which I doubt) the BV will return to like new conditions after replacing all the orings. Just makesure that the shaft is aligned to the small nick on the BV which is around the 12:30 to 1 o'clock position when you put it back together. If you have never taken one apart before you will be surprised how little there is inside.
     
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  3. T.A.D. 776

    T.A.D. 776 New Member

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    Check the shaft of your spool for corrosion pitting.
    If so you can buy a new spool for your setup instead of a complete new barrel valve assembly.
    If you must buy a new barrel valve I sure like my new Ralph Gorr one.
    Ralph Gorr Fuel Injection 949-859-2359 www.gorrfuelsystems.com
     
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  4. Dale H.

    Dale H. Member

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    I have that problem every spring. It seems sitting over the winter the o-rings shrink,but after the motor runs for awhile ,they quit leaking.
     
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  5. Greco400

    Greco400 Member

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    I have that problem every spring. It seems sitting over the winter the o-rings shrink,but after the motor runs for awhile ,they quit leaking.

    Yes i always did that but for some reason its leaking badly so i think im going to buy a new barrel vavle and keep this one for a spare.

    Also Is there any guys who run two pumps One for burn out and one just for the run? My engine builder thinks i should do that so i might think into it

    any info?
     
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  6. T.Howell

    T.Howell Member

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    I have used o-rings from a transmission rebuild kit. I believe it was a mid 80s Chevy S-10 trans kit. They have a blue/green coating on them which eventually washes off. They work and I have found them at 2 different transmission shops.
    Blue Chip car-6/7 years (I can't even remember the last time I looked at it)
    Florence dragster-4 years
    Jay Blake's car 3 years
    Never a leak from the o-rings.
    The Blue Chip car sits for long periods of time yet does not leak at first fire up.

    Will, maybe ATC could come up with a part #.
     
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  7. RBS

    RBS Authorized Merchant

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    Barrel Valve

    We Do Carry Both Parts Piston 67.50 And O-ring Kit 5.95 Probaly A Good Idea To Get A Spare On When Ordering. I Like The Idea Of The Tranny O-rings Did They Let You Buy Just The O-rings Or Did You Have To Buy The Whole Kit.
     
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  8. T.Howell

    T.Howell Member

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    Actually both trans shops just gave me a few at no charge. When I can get a hold of the guy I know at one shop I will see if he remembers what they were.
    It was quite a while ago.
     
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  9. bruce mullins

    bruce mullins Top Dragster

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    Also Is there any guys who run two pumps One for burn out and one just for the run? My engine builder thinks i should do that so i might think into it
    any info?[/QUOTE]
    why in the world would you need a different pump for the burnout than the run. sounds like a big mess to me. any pump that is good enough for a full run is more than enough pump for a burn out.
     
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    Last edited: Apr 10, 2006
  10. eli

    eli Banned

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    why in the world would you need a different pump for the burnout than the run. sounds like a big mess to me. any pump that is good enough for a full run is more than enough pump for a burn out.[/QUOTE]


    Not to mention that it would take more H/P to run two pumps.
     
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  11. Greco400

    Greco400 Member

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    I typed that down wrong sorry, Heres how it went My dragster is running very rich at idle and i have to burp the trottle right before i burn out to get all the extra fuel out of the cylinders, and my idle is very high I set it like that so it would not shut off. A guy told me to run two differn't pumps and my Engine builder said i should run a two stage fuel system to stop the high idle and being very rich at idle. So how would I run this? /setup/ I seen Fuel cars running vavles to control the pressure?

    Any body have info on that



    and I ordered a new Barrel vavle and the Orings, brass washer. So I will just change over my stuff and keep the leaky one for a spare parts
     
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  12. Mike Canter

    Mike Canter Top Dragster
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    Maybe you should try different percent leakdown at idle and find one that doesn't cause you to die out. If I run mine any higher than 85% leakdown on idle the motor justs gets too rich and we idle at 2000 rpm. The big thing is really what your staging EGTS are.
     
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  13. Greco400

    Greco400 Member

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    I will try that, Also would a lean out or air operated vavle keep the amount of fuel from going in while doing a burn out and idle
     
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  14. Mike Canter

    Mike Canter Top Dragster
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    What percent is your idle set at now and what pressure is your idle return poppet set at?
     
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