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Discussion in 'Manton Push Rods Top Alcohol Tech Questions' started by SoDak, Jul 22, 2009.
I'm going to have to use that as an excuse sometime.
Yep it speeds it up
What's wrong with using an oil pan heater to do this?
If you heat the oil to 160° before you make the run, wouldn't this "cook off" any alky during this preheat and during the run?
SoDak, that is fine. I used mine in my door car for just that purpose. I woudl come back to the shop after racing and plug the heater in for a couple hours to dry it out. With it out of the motor, i think (key word, think) it lets the moisture out quicker, without consendating on other parts (look at the valve train with the oil pan heater plugged in, it is covered in water).
also if you want to improve your results... run lucas oil stabilizer. it makes a big difference in the overall stability of the oil or at least it always has for me
Ive spent some time making my own biodiesel. Every now and then while pouring the methoxide (methanol and lye mixture) into the hot oil, Id get a big whiff of vapor. It goes to your head almost instantly and its not the good feeling of having a few drinks with your friends. I kept a bottle of leftover wedding wine in the garage fridge. It only takes a few swallows of good alky to rid yourself of the bad stuff. I know some diesel homebrewers that take a drink before mixing as a preventative.
Cook the oil outside of the engine. Its pretty difficult to mop up all the water off the valve train parts and heads. Its going to be all over the lifters and bottom end too and you cant just wipe those off with a shop towel.
Has anyone tried analyzing the oil after doing this to see what's left? Diesel guys are big on analyzing oil because the acid in the oil combines with stabilizers in the oil, thus depleting the stabilizers. The recommendation to use Lucas Oil stabilizer is right on even if you don't cook your oil (and I'm not just saying that because I sell the stuff).
BTW - Don't tell anyone but firefighters actually like fire. So by all means, set stuff on fire but don't hurt yourself or anyone else.
Damn right. When we ran a TAD we always put some of this stuff in, never once had a bearing problem. I swear you could lube your engine up with this stuff, forget to fill it with oil, and still not break anything (though I wouldn't recommend it). We'll be putting it on our altered when that comes out too.
I have fitted a morosso pan heater to my oil tank (dry sump system)
so after transferring what ends up in the pan back to the tank and turn on the heater its all good....no condensation thru the engine...just leave the oil tank cap off for an hour or so
I use a crock pot. We have been married 38 years and the crock pot was a wedding present and I sugessted to my wife we should get a new crock pot so I could have the old one. It holds about 1/2 the volume the engine holds so it takes two sessions. I put it on low, the temp is about 180, and I leave it cook untill there are no more bubbles. When both batches are done I add some LUCAS oil stabilizer. I also only do this once and then toss the oil.
I reuse my oil eventually in the lawn mower.
On my nephew's S/C dragster, (a BBC, carbed, on alky) J.E.Kristec told him to let the car sit for about week (he usually races every weekend), pull the drain plug, put the drain plug back in when the oil starts to come out, then check, add oil as nesessary, the only other thing he said was to change the oil twice a year. He's been doing that for almost 3 years now with no problems.
Have done the same thing for years. Works great. Oil and water (alky turns into water) will separate when cold, oil is lighter than water so it floats on top. Same deal as Navy ships. To keep the ships buoyant, when the fuel is consumed, salt water is pumped into the fuel tanks to compensate for the used fuel keeping the ship in the water and not bouncing on top. When fueling up, the water is pumped back out.
Has anyone done this with nitro dilluted oil?
Doesn't it make a difference on all this if its synthetic oil?
I know somone who does it w/ redline from a nitro car. It works!
Dross, got some details?
Heating Red Line Oil
Guys, interesting thoughts here. From our position, there's one big thing left out here: Oils are designed to run at 210f (technically, that is when it is a 60wt) and ours is safe to run well above that! You will not "burn off" the additive packages heating it in any of the ranges you've spoken about. The oil and additives last far longer than an engine would at that temperature--your seals begin to melt at 300f. You guys race it normally at no more than 160f from our testing. That's not even operating temp in a road car or other race car.
Our experience with customers evaporating off methanol shows it starts to work at about 90f and you should not need to get it hotter than 150f. If you stimulate it with some air (like with a nitro-mixing stick on a air hose...) it works much faster. Many of our Pro Mod customers have heaters in their tanks, take off the dry sump cap to vent the system, and evaporate it off while running the valves. Most TAFC guys seem to have a fresh batch per run and heat it in a big pot when its convenient. Obviously, we don't recommend for wet sump customers to heat their oil in the motor due at the risk of little evacuation.
We have no clue how well this process works with other products, as the Red Line 60WT is an ester-based product that deals with the methanol and its evaporation better than conventional products.
See you in Vegas,
Red Line Oil
similar to the other posts here. The oil gets time to settle & some of the fuel separates from the oil on the ride back to the shop. Then heated to approx. 180 deg. in an open container & when it appears like original color, drained into cleaned container. Done in small batches (2-3 gallons).
A Guy over here used to leave the oil to seperate and he took some and had it analysed at a lab , they said there were virtually no traces of the alcohol left in the oil,