Kb Olds Block Vs A Rodeck Chevy

What Is The Difference In A Kb Olds Block And A Rodeck Chevy Block Do They Use The Same Cylinder Heads, Crank etc.What Do They Have In Common?, And What Are The Differences?. I Have Never Had Any Dealings With A Kb Olds Thanks

 

The KB olds block has cross bolt mains and I believe you can order different head bolt patterns . It also uses a flat pan rail like a hemi does . The new century block is also a good choice if you have to have a chevy style block , the century block and kb olds block can handle much more abuse than the rodeck can also . http://newcenturyperformance.com/Blocks.htm . You can also get the century and kb block with 1/2" head studs to help clamp the heads down . I bought a century block in the past and was very happy with it .

 

i could be wrong but i think the pan width is larger for a kb/olds.

 

The Rodeck that we have has been one heck of an engine we put 350 to 400 hp of NOS to it. the motor was made in the early 70's I think, the Block # is B241 We have used it for over around 15 years, before we got it it was in a Pulling Truck. Would really like to know how old it is


Lanny

 

The KB/Olds uses a different pan ,timing cover and slightly different starter than a normal BBC. They are available in a lot of different head patterns and deck heights. The bottom end is probably as strong as a hemi. It uses a standard Chevy crank but most people run hemi rod journals. I would buy a New Century. Its almost identical and KB's service is a little weak.
You can find a complete engine pretty reasonable. We tried to sell ours last year and found it wouldn't bring much so we continue to run it. The only problems we've had have been in the big chief valve train.

Mike

 

I too sold a Rodeck and bought a KB Olds block. Another good point is that KB Olds has 1/4" lowered crank. Not the same as raised cam. Valvetrain stuff stays the same even though crank has more clearance. Bill Kuhlman told me some horror stories about the metalurgy of the older Rodecks and how hard they were to weld up. Another racer Danny Humphries with a Whipple found the limits of the rodeck too.

Now lets talk valvetrain on Big Chiefs...Overkill are you running Dart heads or the Pontiacs???

Mudwrench

 

I also had more than a few valvetrain probs with my big chief 14 deg. heads . Bent many manton pushrods , exploded lifter wheels , broken rockers , pulled the threads out of the heads that hold the ex stands on , broke the bolts that hold the shaft to the stand , snapped the shafts , etc. The engine builder I bought the parts and tune up from could not figure it out . I fixxed it all by turning the lead on the mag down and had zero probs from there on . The valve lash was constant from then on and it really turned into a reliable engine .

 

im about two weeks out from getting my new century motor. im right by the company and i can tell you that they are some really good guys to deal with all the parts are first rate and so is the workmanship. i had him build the complete 540 shortblock with my tophalf and he really was priced really well. he has all the parts there to do the job and he showed me all the things they did to make the block even stronger than before

 

Friend of mine runs Pontiac Heads with 37 Lbs. Boost. He will bend a vlv. or crush a lifter about every 6 to 8 pulls. He runs Stainless valves and it may do it to intake or exhaust. The valves bend about 1.5" from the top. 32 degrees of timing with a supermag 4.
I assume this is all valve float...but would love to hear other Ideas since I am building the same set up...

Mudwrench

 

We have run 14% and 18% big chiefs on our 540 with a 14-71 helix. We broke the 18% water heads so I wouldn't even consider a pontiac unless it was solid. The 18's went 40 passes trouble free. The 14's have broken an exhaust stand which tore up a lot of stuff. It was old and abused so it was just a learning experience. We've broken 2 exhaust valve springs with no other destruction. I just put new springs on and added about 70lbs of additional seat pressure(420+)...hopefully that will make it happier. We started with 25 deg of timing and it ran like a turd shifting at 8000. We threw 30 degrees to it and shifted at 8800 and it picked up .4 and 6mph! 2900 lb powerglide car going low 7's at 198 leaving at idle. We're turning it up this weekend for some test hits. Hopefully we'll see 200.
There's usually at least one hemi at the race with trashed valvetrain and the bottom ends are about equal so it's hard to badmouth the olds too much.
Mike

 

My engine was finally happy with 29-30 deg of timing with a mag4 or a msd 20 amp mag . Always ran ti valves and 370-380 lbs. on the seat and the boost was a max of 38 lbs with my blower . T&D rockers on the ex. because they had a larger dia. shaft than the jesel and they were more than happy to make custom stands to correct a slight geometry prob . I had the stock dia. lifters in the beginning but ended up with the .904 lifters due to them having a larger dia. wheel . I was happy with the chevy when I figured out how to make it live , but when I look back at the money i had in it , could have had a billet fat head engine and more hp for the money . That education was not cheap , my .02 .

 

I will guess your Rodeck (B241) would date back to 1979. I had B090 (new in early 1978).

 

A KB/Olds aka New Century with big chiefs went 5.96@243 in a screwblown promod last weekend. I think it's the first wedge in the fives for doorcars. First full pass on the car!!!
BTW Lonnie Houde wrenches on it.

Mike