screw chevy dropping cylinders at stage

We have a d rotor big chief chevy at 100% with converter. Launching on 2 step with air throttle limiting boost. 4100 rpm 16lbs of boost it works good in the driveway but kills 1,2 and partially 7 on the starting line.1,2 stay dead all the way down. I'm running really rich with low timing to shake down the new car.I have the timing dumped while on the brake.
I think the burnout and backing up are piling extra fuel in it. It idles at .7 gpm 1800rpm.

For the next race I leaned 1&2 nozzles .004 each and closed the plugs from .014 to .011. I'm also going to lean the main quite a bit. Since i'm running soft timing all the way downtrack I can't see it making any big heat.
I also switched to a looser converter stator.
I only have a couple hits before qualifying next week so I need to make it go.

Thanks for any thoughts, Mike

 

1 and 2 nozzles

dont lean 1 and 2 nozzles they will be lean at the 1/8
mine was thats why i didnt lean 1 and 2
take the hose off 1 or 2 and rev the engine like your
staging the car and hold the port hose in a can i bet
your not opening the ports below 5000
i advanced my cam and raised compression and
mine got a 100% better but it will always do it some
ive seen others racepak , just watch some youtube videos
and you can see others with the same problem
i talked to jay payne once and he said they all do it
to some degree
i dont think the dribbler system will fix it because mine
did it with no hose on cyl 1 port(i blocked it off and still
did it just as bad )
when you crack the throttle all the fuel that is in the intake is pushed
to cyl 1 and 2 , i think the only thing that you can do is increase the
recovery rate with cam timing and compression and more boost a stage
you might try your # 1 dot at 0 instead of taking the timing out
with the button pushed then pull it all outlike .05
or open the throttle more on the 2 step it will recover quicker that way
our next trip is no air throttle and 2 step wot (i hope it moves)
you got my number call any time
duane

 

screwed

I figured this would bring a lot of opinions.
My ports are open just above idle. It's setup to run with the blades mostly closed at stage on the two step.
I'm not worried about the egts they are just a reference especially downtrack with timing out.I'm worried about heat on the plugs.
Everybody is killing so much timing on the hit I can't see the point in working the mechanics of the engine to make it burn more efficiently. As long as the plugs fire before I command a full load of timing I really don't care. They will have to do it consistently of course.
I'm trying to run it really soft and will probably have to get it closer to make it happy. I will turn up the boost or run the blades wide open if I have to.
Thanks for the ideas guys.

 

Duane I remembered what you said about #2 spraying fuel all the time. It sounds like it's the nature of the psi plate. Obviously,your car is lighting the fire downtrack to run the mph it has. If your system is on the hat until 5000 then the back cylinders are probably lean with everything crammed in the front.
I imagine wide open with 50 psi on the hit will be the most even temps you can get but i'm not sure how it will pay when you are already making plenty of wheelspeed whenever you need it.
I've watched the pro's switch back and forth on the air throttle numerous times. I've seen plenty of broken belts and headers too.