TAD Blueprints, Chassis jig

Has anyone come across blueprints for a dragster car around the size of 270 inch that works or have plans of there own car, as i live in Australia we here don't have the amount of builders over here, that you guys have Plans here is nil. Also on the subject of chassis jigs as i am going to build a jig does anyone have photos /description of what has worked for them. I am a racer running a blown dragster here but is only a short wheel base . Any help would be greatly appreciated. Ian

 

alright, im in the uk and there is a pair of blokes near me that are very helpful have a look on the web for there site, its bj nostalgia. they mainly build slingshots and altereds but i no that they would help you with the jig set up. hope that helps abit ????

[ April 20, 2005, 09:46 AM: Message edited by: Frank - Luke ]

 

I built a Super Comp Altered for my cousin using only a big I beam and 4 x 2 channel iron tacked to it. Used common sense an electronic angle finder and the check, double check & recheck method. First race car I ever built! from the ground up. And I'll be damned if the thing didn't go straight down the track the first time out. Mark Williams sells an chassis building video, I used that for a referance and guide for the chassis jig and construction.

 

Mark Williams sells a kit with tubing,but you can purchase just the blueprints also.And with the video tape it makes it a lot easier.

 

Mark Williams sells plans and a video on building a TAD. The plans sell for about $50.00 U.S. Contact him at [ 303-665-7021 ]or their website www.markwilliams.com .They also have other plans too. Alcohol funny car, supercomp dragster and front engine dragster plans.

 

Ian, here is another phone number for Mark Williams 1-800-525-1963.

 

i went this route and after a few year's of long nights and hard work i'm glad i did... so here's my $0.02

i would recommend starting with a copy of the sfi specs for whatever you are wanting to end up with. in my case it was an altered... and it really won't cost anymore to build it to the top spec (or easily upgradeable) than it does to build it to say super comp spec. only drawback to that approach is you may end up with a chassis that is a bit more rigid than needed... so plan accordingly. but my point is start toward an sfi car and you'll be safer and 'by the book' rather than relying on someone else's version/interpretation of the spec according to their blueprint. i had a copy of the williams prints (in fact i have all of his prints) and ended up using it only as a checklist and for figuring my tubing needs

just a little advise... if you build it inside your house like i did make sure it's not more than 30" wide... hahaha... btw... it did fit out

www.metalmafiaracing.com

 

Thanks for the input, i have ordered the mark williams plans,if anyone has any more comments im all ears.

 

Good choice & order the video also you won't be sorry you did. The drawings I have are at least 6 years old & do not show slip joints or where or how to install them. Slip joints makes the chassis more flexible meaning the chassis works harder & better going down the track. Slip joints also will wear the chassis out faster. Then there are the cable cars which I won't go into because I don't know squat about them.
Altered Boy makes a good point order the SFI specs for T/AD. Don't be afraid of calling other chassis builders for there advice, most will be glad to help you. The kit car I built for my cousin came from a local chassis builder and some things on the drawings didn't make sense so I made phone calls to figure it out. I got the best help from Frank Parks at Neil & Parks Racing Ent.
Reaserch your project there are lots of ideas & drawings floating around out there.

 

Ian; because I almost have "dual citizenship", it is not as hard as you think. What city are you near, and I'll suggest some jigs to look at.

 

>>>Slip joints makes the chassis more flexible meaning the chassis works harder & better going down the track. Slip joints also will wear the chassis out faster.>>>

Could someone PLEASE show me a picture or decent description of what a slip joint actually is? This is something I've wondered about for quite some time. My email is al@NapierRealty.com if anyone would like to shoot me a pic.

I am going through a similar deal, building myself a (185wb) FED that will likely be powered by an injected alky BBC with a Turbo 400; already have the 2.2b specs and a Mark Williams blueprint to see how one of these beasts is basically laid out.

My background is roundy round cars, both building & driving, so I'm in the process of getting myself quite an education on dragsters

Thanks.

Al in CT

 

All a slip joint is, is a larger piece of tubing slipped over the lower frame rail and welded to the uprights in the forward section of the car. The slip joint tube is one size bigger than the lower frame rail. If using 1 1/4 OD tube the slip joint is made from 1 3/8 OD tube. The slip joint is not welded to the lower frame rail, but stops can be welded front & back of the slip joint to the lower frame rail to prevent the slip joint from becoming wedged on the frame rail. What I should have stated is slip joints allow the chassis to flex going down the track to plant the tires not work harder and better. Although both are true.

 

When building your jig, if you put horizontal braces on the legs, make them high enough so you can slip the legs of an engine crane under them. Makes it a lot easier to get the car down when you cant find any help.