spark plugs for a blower motor

Discussion in 'PSI Superchargers Tech Questions' started by jody stroud, Oct 8, 2008.

  1. jody stroud

    jody stroud ZOMBIE Top Dragster

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    What's the best plug to use with a big chevy, big duke/big chief heads with a 14/71 psi? I've been using NGK5671A-10, are these the one's to use? Seem to work fine so far.
     
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  2. altered boy

    altered boy Outlaw Altered

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    jody i'd have to check... but i think that's what i run in my 'boat motor' (boat=cheby) too
     
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  3. mbaker3

    mbaker3 New Member

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    I run NGK 5671A-9 and NGK 5671A-10 in my small block. Seems to work just fine and the plugs read OK after a run. I change plugs only because here in Florida, the humidity changes so much, you can actually see a difference in a run with the different plugs!
     
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  4. Mike Canter

    Mike Canter Top Dragster
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    Jody those plugs are just fine.
     
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  5. jody stroud

    jody stroud ZOMBIE Top Dragster

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    Very funny about the boat motor crack!!! Thanks for the replies guy's.
     
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  6. caseyspradlin

    caseyspradlin Member

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    mike, I read your article about plug reading, I suppose to read the cadmium burning off you have to install a new set after every run?

    thanks
     
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  7. Mike Canter

    Mike Canter Top Dragster
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    Yes that is correct. To save money you can change just one or two plugs until you get close and use your EGTs to balance the port jets. Then when you get close you can use all new plugs to balance the port jets from the plug readings which is more accurate.
     
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  8. BUTCH

    BUTCH Member

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    info needed

    Mike, We are running the dart 360 solid heads on a BBC, would you have any idea on what kit to get, it really sounds like a great tool set to have in the trailer, FYI We are running the NGK-R5671A-9 plugs ? thanks again
     
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  9. eli

    eli Banned

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    Mike, I don't remember if I read your plug reading article all the way threw, But you might want to remind these guys that the reading of plugs, can be frustrating especially with alky, because the motor can be so lean that theres not enough fuel to make any heat, and you will think its rich, "plugs will look like brand new", if it's that far over to the lean side you wont burn anything, but you wont make any power either. ;)
     
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  10. Mike Canter

    Mike Canter Top Dragster
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    Butch, go up on the Time Sert website or call them to make sure you get the correct one. The kits are not cheap but we always have one with us.

    One thing I would like to offer here. It has been found out by BAE and other racers that anti-sieze compound actually grinds away the threads in the heads. Anti-sieze compound works well on plugs that stay in a motor for 40,000 miles or more but on a race motor where you put in warmup plugs then put in the run plugs then take out the run plugs before and after every run the metal particals in the anti-sieze compound actually grind away the threads and make them weak. I use nothing but white lithium grease on plug threads in a race car now. Also that anti-sieze compound accidentally smeared on the insulator or the center electrode will short that plug out.

    Gene, you are 100% correct and I will include that in my later update of the article.
     
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  11. blown375

    blown375 New Member

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    This is 100% true! I know this first hand ,when I first started out I had an old timer with a good line of B.S. "helping" me out ,and he made a huge change to the fuel system that I had flowed by a very reputable tuner and the old timer claimed that they don't know anything and they only ballpark a tune up(WRONG!) and the car slowed down and he kept insisting the car was fat every pass! He kept taking fuel away and saying the plugs show no heat and the car kept running worse !
    After putting an egt on the now shitty running car the meter said "OL" (out of limit) and a small private argument in the pits broke out, I put a bunch of fuel back in, and the car picked back up but after proving my point and a long quiet trip home, I did a leak down on the motor and it was not good! When I did the leak down I could hear the air in the exhaust pipes, It was leaking down around the exhaust seats that had turned purple and were getting ready to fall out of the heads ,but much to my surprise the rod bearings and pistons were perfect... he had taken so much fuel from the motor that he stepped over the threshold and the engine didn't have enough fuel in it it to tear its self apart.

    Hopefully some one else can learn from this mistake with out going through it first hand! BABYSTEPS!
     
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  12. SoDak

    SoDak Active Member

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    "If your lost on the tuneup and the plugs aren't colored, richen by 2 sizes or lean by 1."

    If I could remember who said this I would give them credit.
     
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  13. eli

    eli Banned

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    More better, look at how much fuel you used, I just came back from a race with the boat I'm tuneing, and it has to big a pump I'm trying to size the pump to put out 7. GPM to the hat, it's a 110 enderle @12.79 GPM, so I have a pump loop with a 135 jet back to the tank with a # 8 an hose because the hose is 3.5 ft long, and the main @ 120, same hose, and it's still rich, (8/71 @ 5 teeth over, 9.6 28* in the mag ) the driver thinks it's lean, so I opend the tank and showed him he used 15 gal of fuel in two laps, ( so now what do you think Sparky) any way it still went 140.MPH. #3 run on the boat with my fuel system. Point is we are all still learning something new every time out, we dont have a puter, so it's all old school. write stuff down so you know for next time.:D
     
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  14. altered boy

    altered boy Outlaw Altered

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    the hemi boys all laugh at my little 427 stock block cheby... until i flip the 3-way open and she picks up the 90% :cool:

    save gas... burn nitro :D

    or is it

    save the paint... use the halon? :eek:
     
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  15. BUTCH

    BUTCH Member

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    fuel set up

    Gene, we had the same issue on a friends car blown alky funny car, and what we found was that when we put the pump loop on we had to close up the hat jets to get the fuel pressure back were it was and to keep the same flow, just my 2 cents. good luck:D
     
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  16. eli

    eli Banned

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    Are you talking about the nozzles? or the main jet, I put smaller nozzles in the hat and added port nozzles, I have 130.lbs pressure. i can go to 150 but i'm chicken, I hate blowing up motors. :rolleyes:
     
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  17. BUTCH

    BUTCH Member

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    fuel adjustments

    Gene, sorry about that!! we made all of the adjustments in the hat, The only point I was trying to make was to keep the fuel pressure the same, if you are adding or opening the pump loop it will also drop fuel pressure ? good luck
     
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  18. Lorenzo

    Lorenzo New Member

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    Congrats on your win Gene sr. :D, Now see if you can get the boss to buy up your "Dream Motor" I have one for sale real cheap ;)
     
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  19. eli

    eli Banned

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    Can't run a solid block and heads this is a round e round boat, maybe when he puts the drag boat together, i been talking to him about a hemi. Our whole crew thinks the driver is afraid of what we got now, If he sees a hemi he'll s#!t himself. :eek:
     
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  20. eli

    eli Banned

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    Say why don't you sell it to your uncle Vic. that will put him in the 5.50's, he still got that 4.150 crank in his, the one you got will get up on the screw real quick, he won't even need the low speed lean out and still have the cubes. 509 yes? His is only 499 Cu In :D
     
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    Last edited: Oct 10, 2008

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