Remote Changeover / Kill switch from FIE: Wiring details?

Hello ITA--

I'm hoping the community can provide some feedback on wiring FIE's remote changeover switch (which allows motor to be started on mag's internal pickup, but then can be switched to a crank trigger once the motor's running).

Specific Application: Mag44 and Grid in a Noonan hemi roots blown alcohol setup. I just don't have quite enough cranking RPM to get the motor to consistently fire on crank trigger (even with 24v to starter).

Issue i'm having is a bit of ignition noise at high load/RPM (above 8000rpm or so). I was able to make one pass without the changeover switch in the circuit and that noise went away--car made its best pass ever.

Question is about recommended wiring for the switch vs what actually works for me:

Recommended wiring:
Input 1: mag internal pickup (or crank trigger)
Input 2: crank trigger (or mag's internal pickup)
Output: goes into the Grid's trigger input.
Grid trigger input (white wire) would be wired directly to top of mag (violet wire).

That wiring seems straight forward enough--but it has never worked for me. Instead I have needed to wire like this:
Input 1: mag internal pickup
Input 2: Grid trigger input (white wire)
Output: top of mag input (violet wire).
Crank trigger is wired directly to the grid's trigger input (grid always sees crank trigger in this case).

The FIE switch instructions say that is intended to changeover from mag's internal pickup to crank trigger--but i have needed to wire it so that it does changeover from mag's internal pickup to grid output.

Anyone seen this issue--and any resulting noise issues? Also--any alternatives to solving the too slow cranking issue?

Thanks for the input! Feel free to give me a call to discuss. Chris @ 612_412_-3018

 

Hi..... I highly recommend contacting Spud Miller, the founder of FIE . He invented the device you are trying to hook up and is also the technical person at FIE. He can help you get it right..... 541-990-2485 tech@fuelinjectionent.com His website fuelinjectionent.com has product hook up instruction schematics. Start with the hook up drawings. There is one for the grid... Be patient, he is very busy and his products are First Class .

Ray H.

 

Thanks for the input--have spoken with Spud many many times about many things. Great knowledgeable guy for sure--but he had not seen the issue that i've had. Thus reaching out to ITA . . .

 

The noise could be caused by a number of things. Make sure your ignition wiring is shielded, you have good grounds, etc. It’s usually the simple things. Try to run all of your ignition related wiring on one side of the car, away from all other electrical components.

Tighten your trigger gap and it will probably help with the slow crank firing issue. I run a 16v battery and can usually get mine to fire on the trigger with gap set around .080. The pickup is cheap enough to replace every season as well.