Phasing in a Mag 44

Discussion in 'PSI Superchargers Tech Questions' started by Crew, Aug 23, 2005.

  1. Crew

    Crew Volunteer

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    I have seen several teams use a cap with a hole in it to "phase in the Mag". What is the purpose of this?

    C
     
    #1
    Crew, Aug 23, 2005
  2. aj481x

    aj481x Member

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    We use the big cap, which is adjustable, and the rotor with the big tip. Using the phasing cap lets you see and adjust the exact rotor position. You can also position it to where you will be when you retard timing. With the big rotor tip you can get good position advanced and retarded. You can actually use these caps with the motor running and see, with a timing light, exactlly what is happening. It is kind of interesting to look at it running, you will see some big sparks if you are out of phase. [​IMG]
     
    #2
    aj481x, Aug 23, 2005
  3. Leon

    Leon New Member

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    The cap is used to phase the rotor and time it while cranking while using a light as it wont let it fire.Or you can just do it like you would buzzing a point mag in and set the tip of the rotor to #1 terminal while the degree wheel is at say 40 or whatever and verify when running.
     
    #3
    Leon, Aug 23, 2005
  4. Mike Canter

    Mike Canter Top Dragster
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    You cannot "Buzz" in a ProMag 44.
    It is 100% necessary to rotor phase a ProMag if you are using a crank trigger. If without a crank trigger and you use a lot of retard then you need to phase the rotor. If you are only retarding the timing by as much as 4 or 5 degrees then it is not necessary to phase the rotor.

    It is real easy to do with a hole drilled in the cap just inside number one terminal and right next to the terminal. Just hook up the timing light shine it in the whole active your retard and if you have an adjustable cap then turn it until it lines up. If you are not using a crank trigger then you have to have the adjustable cap because if you turn the mag the timing changes.
    If you are using a crank trigger then you can use the old style cap and just turn the whole mag until it lines up.
     
    #4
    Mike Canter, Aug 24, 2005
  5. Crew

    Crew Volunteer

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    So....Say we are running 27° of timing. I take the engine to TDC then to my timing mark. I then adjust the mag to the mark I made on the side of the mag for #1. Then put the cap with the hole in it on the mag and crank it to see how far I'm off when it fires? Or crank it over by hand first to see how the rotor is lined up with #1? We are not using a six shooter or any retarding device at this time.

    C
     
    #5
    Crew, Aug 24, 2005
  6. Mike Canter

    Mike Canter Top Dragster
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    Are you using a crank trigger? If not they way you sytated will work great. Then fine tune it with a timing light.

    If you have a crank trigger then first just run the motor without the crank trigger. Set it up like you stated for 27* then start it up and fine adjust it with a light. Doing this first will ensure the phasing is correct. Now stop the motor and align the degree wheel to 27* then adjust the crank trigger pick up so it is directly across a degree wheel magnet and lock it down. Now start the motor and check the timing and adjust the crank trigger pickup position if needed....do not move the Mag 44
     
    #6
    Mike Canter, Aug 24, 2005
  7. Crew

    Crew Volunteer

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    We're not using a trigger. Thanks for the info.

    C
     
    #7
    Crew, Aug 25, 2005
  8. nitrohawk

    nitrohawk New Member

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    Havn't heard anyone mention that it is necessary to remove the slack opposite the rotation when alighning the rotor with the number one terminal with the cap off.I have the cap with the hole in it but found it better to mark the center of the terminal on the mag base and remove the slack by rotating oposite the rotation with this mark as you can't do this with the cap on. The rotor is not in the same position when running as it is at rest. Also mark the mag. base at the clamp or use the degree tape to check after each run to see if the generator has moved. With mag triggers it will still fire at the desired advance but if the genertators move will get out of phase and arc up the rotor.
     
    #8
    nitrohawk, Aug 25, 2005
  9. rickey

    rickey Member

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    has anyone used the adjustable caps?

    it looks like it would be the best way but does it help?

    $125 from summitt

    set the timing then adjust the cap so rotor button lines up with cap, makes no spark in cap
     
    #9
    rickey, Aug 26, 2005
  10. Mike Canter

    Mike Canter Top Dragster
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    The main reason for the MSD adjustable caps is for when you change the timing during a run more that or close to 22*. On a eight cylinder cap there is 44 degrees between each post so if you change the timing close to or more than 22* during the run the spark can jump to the other terminal and fire a different plug. By using the adjustable cap you can split up the rotor phasing so that before you retard the ignition you can be ten degrees before the rotor gets to the post and with 20 degrees of retard you can now have the rotor 10 degrees after the post so you are no way near the next post. Also the cap has a larger diameter which makes the actual measurement between the post greater and adding more safety.

    If you are only changing the timing by a small amount such as 2-6 degrees the large cap is not necessary. The large adjustable cap was really designed for Top Fuel cars that move their ignition timing more than 20* during a run.

    You sure don't need an adjustable cap if you don't have a crank trigger and are not changing the timing much because it is not necessary to phase the rotor in the mag. If you have a crank trigger then you have to phase the rotor and you can either use the adjustable cap or just turn the mag. Either cap you are going to have to have a hole drilled into it just inside the #1 post so you can shine in a timing light to see the relative postion of the rotor to the post.
     
    #10
    Mike Canter, Aug 26, 2005

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