My first ride.

Discussion in 'PSI Superchargers Tech Questions' started by Moparious Maximus, Jun 28, 2009.

  1. Moparious Maximus

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    I took my first blown alky ride ever this weekend and im hooked for sure.
    it went 8.409 @ 165.5 my second trip, we went up in smoke my first attempt, and the car weighs 3200 lbs with 12" x 31.25" slicks. :D I think it will do a 8.20 or better if I can calm the hit down some.::rolleyes:

    We made 4 good passes over the weekend and 1 not so good one, but it put on one hell of a show. Everything went pretty well, the motor seemed really happy with the tune up, but its still a little fat.

    I do have a few questions/concerns.

    I think we are pressurizing the crankcase a little, we run a 5 stage dry sump pump with all 4 suctions in the pan, vented to a puke tank and one extra -12 vent from the valley to the same puke tank. I thought that would do it, but we pushed out a valve cover gasket a few times. I am getting alot of oil in the puke tank, probably a quarter to half a quart per pass.

    Its a 572" wedge running 15psi boost at 11.7 to 1. I ran the timing from 25* to 30*, didnt make much differance.
    I have been shifting at 8000 and going through the traps at around 8300. I did have a few 9000 rpm burnouts.... oops:eek: Just seems wrong to me with a 4.5" stroke, I know you guys do it.

    We also had problems with valve cover bolts and pan bolts backing out, its always the same ones, the rear pan bolts come loose every pass. Im worried we have a balance problem in the rear of the motor or the torque converter is out of balance. I'm new to this blower deal so any info is good.

    I dont see any signs of detonation but I havent pulled any bearings yet, im gonna do that today.

    I am also seeing alot of belt dust, but as far as I can tell thats pretty normal, I run the purple 8mm gt belt.

    One last thing I swear, we run a JW glide with their 10" steel stater converter, I sent them the converter and told them what I was doing and told them to tighten it up so it would stall at 5000 with 1000 ft lbs of torque. Well I think they messed up something, the thing stalls at 6800, or maybe I way under estimated my torque output.:mad:

    Sorry for the really long post but I still havent calmed down from my NEW addiction.
     
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  2. GregM784

    GregM784 Member

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    Aint it GREAT. I remember my first hits. Such a rush.

    Blower converters are a different breed. The torque of a blower motor will run over a converter quick. Give them a call.
     
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  3. Moparious Maximus

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    Oh I had a blast!!
     
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  4. hemi altered 378

    hemi altered 378 Blown Altered

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    congrats.....it's always nice to see someone have a great 1st outing. it's always nice to see someone else get "hooked":D
    on the crank case pressure deal, i would put 1... 1 1/4 tube in each valve cover. just use the standard quick disconnect deal, should work fine. it doesn't seem like you have enough vent right now. also, you might want to see if you have a stuck ring, that will make it puke oil.
    you really need to watch that burnout rpm.....could be costly. the throttle response is quite a bit different now....huh?:eek:
    send the converter back.....get it tightened up. you shouldn't need that much stall. glad you had a good time
    Darren
     
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  5. hotrodharlkey

    hotrodharlkey New Member

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    CONGRATS on your first outting..i too am building my first blown alky engine..can't wait to my first time down the track in it.
    good luck and keep having fun.
     
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  6. Moparious Maximus

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    Will "running over the converter" make it swell or balloon more?

    When I sent them the converter they told me that converter WONT balloon, I gave it their recomended 3/16 pump clearance, and I still took out the thrust bearing...or what else kills thrust bearings?? Im at a loss.:confused:
     
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    Last edited: Jun 29, 2009
  7. cudacustoms

    cudacustoms New Member

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    What heads and blower are you running?
     
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  8. hotrodharlkey

    hotrodharlkey New Member

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    i'd love to here your full engine/trans/gear combo you are running.i'm building my first blown-alky engine and would like to compare your engine insides[comp..heads..cam..blower..overdrive on it and other facts] to mine to get a ideal where i may be at on my first outting.
     
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  9. Mike Canter

    Mike Canter Top Dragster
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    Normally you run "M" bearings for the thrust bearing and "V" on all the others. That way they last longer. The other trick is to install the upper thrust first and before putting the cap on move the crank hard forward with a prybar to make sure the bearing is pushed all the way forward in the saddle. Now install the cap and just snug down a little then move that crank hard forward again and hold it while you tighten the cap down. This will make sure that both halves of the thrust area are positioned evenly against the crank thrust area. If you install them so one half of the bearing is forward and the other half is to the back the contact area of the crank is only on half a bearing and it will eat it up.
     
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  10. RUGSTER

    RUGSTER New Member

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    Mike! I never new that!!!:eek: Thanks for the info.
    Jason.:)
     
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  11. Moparious Maximus

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    I didnt know that either, makes sense though, more contact area is a must... I will keep that in mind.
     
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  12. Moparious Maximus

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    my combo.


    This is a 572" mopar wedge in a KB stage 5 hemi block 4.5 x 4.5,

    Indy Cylinder Heads 572-13 heads on it "ported by me cuz Im not payin $1500 for something I can do myself" and Indy's blower intake," I had to do alot of work to it to make it fit, and its goin on their head, I didnt understand that. I also machined it for port and blower O-rings.

    Callies blower crank, .0025 clearance on the mains " I'd like to see it around .003", .0032 on the rods

    R&R pro, chevy rods 7.000 long .990 pins

    Diamond, gas ported pistons, with .043, .043, 3mm rings, compression comes up @ 11.7 to 1.

    Comp Cams grind# CRB3 its .750 lift, duration is 281* on the intake, and 289* exhaust 110* lobe sep. I dont think this is a "blower" grind but I like it.

    KB gear drive

    I run BBC Manley pro flow valves 2.25 and 1.88, 275 lbs seat pressure springs @ 2.000, manley's 7/16 pushrods .125 wall CM, T&D rockers 1.6 ratio.

    The blower is a very old Bowers 8-71, I had littlefield put new stripped rotors in it, @ 28 over it makes around 15 psi boost.

    The injector is an 8 port Crower, with 6 .040 nozzles and 2 .022's in the front the ports all have .030's in it with the port check at 8 psi. I use an enderle 110 pump "no loop" started the main at .112 and went down to a .092 the high speed is set around 120 psi, and I think I could stand to take some fuel out of it, but im happy where it is.

    A Vertex mag hopped up by Moose Mags in Des Moines, NGK -9 plugs set at .016

    2.25 zoomies out the fenderwell, and it sounds awesome.

    Jw powerglide with 1.8 low gear, MW bonded aluminium driveshaft, Dana 60 with 4.56 gears built by Moser and 35 spline axles.

    Now you guys are going to call me crazy, leaf springs and drum brakes on all four corners, I built my own ladder/fancy slapper bars, works great.

    Pheonix 31.25x12x15 slicks, @ 8 psi I just blew the tires off, peddled and then tire shake, went down to 7.25 and that worked pretty well, still spinning them some but she picked the nose up and went straight.
     
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    Last edited: Jun 29, 2009
  13. 23T Hemmee

    23T Hemmee Member

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    Mopar,
    It may not prove to be a problem, since you're in the 15psi boost range, but if the .990 pins are thin-wall, lightweight pins, I don't believe I would increase the boost dramatically, or at least not try to get a bunch of laps with them. It sounds like the pistons may have originally been N/A given the ring stack being .043's and 3mm, and gas ported, may not have a lot of longevity with a blower on top. Just something you need to keep an eye on, blower motors are usually pretty hard on light-weight components.
     
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  14. Moparious Maximus

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    Yes this was an NA motor, I just lowered the compression. I'm not going to be turning the boost up any on this motor, its already to much motor for the car. It runs harder that I thought it would, I was estimating it around 1300 hp, well its more like 1500, makes it really fun to drive though. haha
     
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  15. 23T Hemmee

    23T Hemmee Member

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  16. Moparious Maximus

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    That takes a nice picture. Yea we are planning on going to the Cedar Falls meet, should have my motor back togeather by then. My idle is doing good, its still fueling up the front two cylinders pretty bad but she cleans right out.

    We are just getting the motor apart and found a broke lifter, I know its my fault with the burnout rpms.... damnit.
     
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  17. jim phillips

    jim phillips ta/fc

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    the picture is cool love them old chrys products
     
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  18. crdafoe

    crdafoe Member

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    Hey MM: You mentioned that your car has leaf springs and drum brakes, I was just wondering what your chassis is certed for. Isn't a 25.2 cert required for anything under 8.50? I know that the tech inspectors around here check all that stuff when you start going fast.

    Cool car, I liked the photos of it. Are those original magnesium wheels you've got on it?

    Thanks
    Chris
     
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  19. Moparious Maximus

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    The chassis is good for 8.50 and up, I didn't expect it to run that hard, I might have to calm it down some if the tech guys get at me.

    Those are original magnesium wheels front and back.
     
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  20. Flyingpig

    Flyingpig Member

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    Hey! I got an idea. Lets put that motor and trans in my dragster and see what happens!!!

    When I got my dragster it had a pretty high shift chip in it. I put in a 6000 chip and went faster. You might give that a shot.
     
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    Last edited: Jul 10, 2009

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