MGP aluminum rods?

I bought a set of MGP aluminum rods from a mail order source and had the bolts pull out of the rod on the 3rd run. Made quite a mess of brand new engine.
MGP says the rods set on the shelf torqued up for too long of a time.
Any thoughts?
First set was trouble free.
This is my second set of that brand. Anyone know of any quality control issues since MGP was purchased by Race Winning Brands?
540 CI Chevy 1471 HH 30psi boost 32* timing 6.40-218 on alcohol.

 

you have some photos of the damaged rod and bolts, did all 8 rods fall apart?

 

I have pics but dont have anyway to post pictures that I'm aware of.

 

What makes them think they sat on a shelf at torque and what difference would that make if they were just sitting there?

 

Instructions that come with the rods states to not leave them torqued up.
I don't know why aluminum rods would be different outside of the material from a steel rod.
More than one person I have spoken with has stated the same about not leaving them in a torqued condition if not going to be ran for several months.
Just asking here trying to gain knowledge/insight.

 

I never leave mine torqued. Always open box the and untorque them. Never had an issue with my mgp rods

 

Jay is that after every race?
I'm new to a lot of this blower stuff including aluminum rods.
Trying to figure out maintenance levels, which parts are the best and so on.
At my age and confined space to work, pulling the engine after every race is going to be problematic.

 

I take new rods label them and back the torque off. After every race we check rod bearings because we run ours pretty hard. If you're not turning a bunch of rpm and you don't have oil psi issues you can run about 20-25 runs without looking in the pan. Once your combo is figured out I know proline will go 45-50 runs in the 1/8 and never pull the pan. Just takes time to figure your combo out

 

The rule of thumb is if your not going to heat cycle the engine that month, you should relax the torque on the aluminum rods and re-torque them when your ready to run them. Many people don’t follow this and don’t have any issues. I think if you do a search on here, someone got a brand new set of rods that was new old stock, factory sealed, and the rods were found to be all cracked in the rod bolt area upon opening the box. Other things to keep in mind, some companies have been sold and relocated and others have been forced to change raw materials or processes due to the global economy and other outside influences.

 

While I do not run mgp at present, This is 3rd negative poat I have seen on them. Another was told similar about leaving torqued up too long on the motor.
I had a similar BS from MIller 30 yars ago about being torqued while sitting in trailer in cold causing catalyst and that is the reason for the second set having 4 rods creaked after kicking cpl out weekend before.

 

There are issues with aluminum plate rod material now. over a year now. When the aluminum is made in layers it can create vertical cracks up the side of the rods. If you leave them torqued, they will crack.
Have you noticed the disclaimer now coming in the boxes of rods due to shit material. Disclaimers are coming in R&R, MGP, GRP boxes from what I here. Leave them torqued in the box they will crack.
Ask John Dunn about it.
The only Rods I know about that are good, that will not compromise material and have no disclaimer are DSR Rods. Your Welcome guys.

 

MGP has always had that in there instructions about removing torque if the rods are going to sit for any length of time. I've switched to R&R and just received a fresh set from them a week ago. There is no disclaimer with my new set of R&R rods in the box. I talked to Mike a few years ago about this same thing when i first made the switch from MGP and at that time was told there was no reason to back off the bolts when in off season storage. Not sure if that's changed but again, nothing new in the instructions with the R&R's.

 

A lot of issues with raw material that have surfaced over the past year. Use caution, what used to work (torque cycles, runs, etc) may not work anymore. Regardless of who’s name is on the box. Trash in, trash out.

 

We have used MGP exclusively for 15 years , we run them for 20 1/4 mile passes . We check the bearings every 3-4 runs and always endure the oil is HOT . Lucas 70wt

 

Now I'm worried. Is this true for N/A as well? My old B/A motor is sitting here with rods torqued and NOS spare C&A rods are still in the box - maybe 20yrs old, am I screwed?

 

I have 15 museum engines that have been button-ed up f0r 25+ years. A mixture of Pauter, Crower, GRP rods. Always a warm environment.

Some are Ti, and some are Al.

Does this mean I am screwed if I try to dyno test them?