Curious on a couple things. BBC help

After 2.5 seasons of run time on my blown 509 I have elected to freshen it up..lol. I have had alot of fun with it, but in the heads up class I run I need some more ET like most of us do..

The engine has 10.4:1 CR now, GRP RODS, Bryant Crank, BMF HEADS, stainless valves.

I have had ZERO issue's out of it, the engine will run 5.00 at 24% over in the 1/8 mile @ 3400 and go low 4.90's at 31 over. I want to go 4.87-4.90 at 24 over.
So I was gonna raise the CR to 11.5:1 and replace the valves with Titanium intake and exhaust. Along with a MUCH better ring seal now, do you feel this will get it done? Has anyone ever just switched valves and netted any real ET???
I have on the NItrous stuff and N/A stuff just never switched a blown combo.
Any idea's

 

The biggest bang for your buck (and quickest/easiest) is to simply increase the blower overdrive and give it some fuel.

 

I realize that. I run a 14.71 K8 hihelix mert and Im limited in OD right now. So I needed to make it alittle quicker with the current set up.
Question is will this help much or am I wasting my money on the valves?

 

Question

You said you were going to change to Titanium valves. I don't know about going faster but the valve change will ensure you continue to have no problems. I used to run stainless valves and when I discovered due to the heat the exhausts had pretty much turned to glass. (tapped the heads with a hammer and they would break off) I went with titanium intakes and inconel exhausts.

Like I said I don't know if they make you go faster but at least that won't be a potential problem.

My 2 cents
Corey

 

Only incrase is if you can turn the motor harder due to lighter valvetrain weight, and the weight lost in your wallet!

 

so why the limitation on the blower o.d.? is it because it's a 14-71? if that's the case put a smaller blower (10 or 12-71) on it so you can spin the blower up.

and in my opinion with 10.4 CR alky motor... you have a recipe for a lazy motor. bump it to 12:1 with a 60 gasket... that way you can move up/down with a gasket change and then spin the blower to wake that thing up

boost/fuel=great success

in my opinion... with a 509 you can spend your money in better places than ti valves (unless this thing is seeing 9k+rpm?). but don't skimp on the springs no matter what valve you are running

and of course there is always the 'yellow' alternative! do it! be a hero!

 

well on my non blown engines it allowed the engine to get to the RPM quicker and always seen a ET difference as a result. On a blown deal, just not sure, as I feel it will get to the rpm quicker and should be able to run more RPM. Just looking for some idea's

 

I think unless you have been running one hell of a lot of spring on the intake you have likely been seeing less than ideal performance with a conventional valve, you will very likely pick up some top end with titanium on the intakes. I would think that a point of compression and the ring seal should easily net you the gains you are seeking at 24 over since you will be putting the blower limited fuel air into a lot smaller space ( compression ) as well as capturing all the energy ( rings/valve seal ) and allowing the motor to spin faster thereby allowing the blower to spin faster and pump more air ( valves ) speaking of blowers have you been servicing your blower on a regular basis? if not you would surely benefit in having the blower gone through at the same time.

Richard Gavle

 

You could also plug the blower rotor ends. When I ran LF HH 8-71 k8's, I plugged the rotor ends and picked up 8-9% in boost psi.



Can titanium valves handle more heat?

 

Mine are plugged and the blower has only about 20 runs since new. Its pretty good shape, could use some new white strips by season end probably. May do it now though.

 

We run the heavy class as well, We run 14/71 K-11 littlefield on a 540 bbc etc etc very simular to your combo but have been running it for 10 years. need more info from your combo,tranny? 1st 2nd gear ratios and rear gear ratio? Tire? 33.5-34.5 etc fuel pump and flow? combations is were it is at.before you spend a ton of money in the valve train find out if you are utilizing what you all ready have. found that out the hard way! You runat Cecil? Vinnie.

 

I agree, a new pulley is the cheapest horse power. Just run it richer until you have a handle on it. I also agree a smaller blower turned harder could help. We had a 467 BB with a 10/71 that used to turn 9800 in a flatbottom drag boat. Very reliable and no maintence. It had a baby (.675 lift) Engle cam that was great.

 

Vinnie.
I run a ODD ball class around here.. I have to run a 31x10.5 tire max.. NOT the big 33x10.5x16 that lynch and the rest run, I run a 3.89 gear and a glide at 3460 lbs with a 1.80 gear set. I DID HAVE A 1.64 1st but killed it, put the 1.80 in it and it made little or no difference except we got to the shift quicker.
HOOKING this thing on the little tire has been the challenge. But IM getting better at it. I can go .00's like a bracket dragster at 24 over I want to go .87 to .89 at the same overdrive.
Its freshen up time so I thought I might be better to try to improve it.

Last year I couldnt get the car to 60 ft and it ran like a rocket on the back half. Now I have it 60 ftin and I lost the other end...ARRRGH!

 

I hear that, we had the same problem with the lenco. we had a 1.85 first gear and a 4.11 out back. changed the rear to a 4.30 and look out! But we run a 33.5x16x16 so that is different, Hows the convertor? We were in the 1.13 60ft range and it mph like crazy! I believe there is a fine line between the first half and the back half, because we had the same problem for most of last year. Vinnie

 

Ok.. Well the engine is back together and here is what we did to it.. A lot of things came into the next few choices I have made..

#1 From 10.2 CR to 11.5:1 CR
#2 16 Titanium valves from ferrea
#3 Much better ring, and bore now
#4 HAD NEW CONVERTOR MADE..

The 4th one was a tough one for me, here is the deal, last year I was blowing the tires off all the time 10.5x30 slick. Still went 4.93@155 mph though

This year I have the car hooking but cant get it to run the back half, after studying the drive shaft graph, I deduced that the convertor was too tight now that the car is hooking, so to test the theory.. I put my convertor in my buddy's new HEMI dragster, with a superman on it. He has had nothing but trans and convertor problems so we put my protorqe converter in his car and BAM.. 3.93 @ 188.88 to the 1/8 His problems were solved, now Im thinking even though my car is 1400 lbs heavier, I run the same gear and a LOT smaller tire, yet he has a 4.5 stroke and a better blower, now looking a th the graphs we realize that the convertor is little too tight for this car as well. So I had a new one done and hope to test next weekend..

 

Injector

What are you running for an Injector? The right injector will be just like spinning your blower faster, it will increase your boost.
I did not see where you listed your cam, if you did not, what are you running for a cam shaft?

 

I run an oddy's camshaft in at 34* btdc. Here is a pic of my injector. I am considering a carbon fiber hat, but not sure yet if it would be worth anything over what I have.

 

I just have to say, very nice engine compartment, not a whole lot of clutter, thats not an easy task. I like it.

 

Like it was said earlier, increase the compression, put a thinner head gasket in, if you have clearance.

It appears to be an Indy intake... Your variance in port nozzles probably isn't much which to make a long story short, put more fuel through the blower and less in the port nozzles.

Make sure your not running too much ignition timing.

 

Outlaw, as mentioned about the indy manifold, can you tell us the stagger in the ports & what your running in the hat. Just curious as the manifold we have, we are running .040" to .062" in the ports with a 1471 that has 4" setback. We have been looking at trying the Indy so your info will help our decision. Thanks.