Chassis Changes for 36" to 34.5 Tire

My funny car chassis was originally built for a 36" tire but I have always ran 34.5" but the car sits too low and I've always had trouble dragging the pan and my oil pan could be deeper if I had more ground clearence. Is it worth the extra work to remount the front motor plate,mid plate and diff to make the 34.5 work better? What is the optimum crankshaft centerline?

 

Mac, there are alot of important details that you have not provided. One quick question...what is your real issue? Is it pan depth or performance?

 

The chassis seems to work fine I would just like a bit more pan/midplate clearance so I could put a deeper pan on. The car came with 24" tall front runners so I put 25" last time to help a bit.

 

Mac, the least expensive "fix" would be a dry sump oiling system. Since the main issue is pan clearance.

 

I agree but it gets old dragging in the pits and having a crazy ramp setup to get it in my trailer.

 

We set the centerline of the crankshaft, @ 9.1/4" from the top of the jig. with the engine out 65",from centerline of rear axel, The rear axel centerline @ 17" from top of jig, bottom rail is 3" from top of jig. to bottom of rail, You can also buy adjustable spindles from Strange Engineering that will get the front up some more. And yes it's worth fixing the chassis so you dont drag your oil pan around the pits, and trailer, do it over the winter.( If you cant do it now.) It's always right to fix whats wrong.
Gene Terenzio Sr.

 

We have the same thing on our car but we stayed with the 36 rears and put a 25 front on.
I put a .10 lower gear to compensate for the bigger tire. I know some guys that normally use 34.5s will switch to 36s on marginal tracks.

-Dale
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