BRUNO Shaft upgrade

Discussion in 'Manton Push Rods Top Alcohol Tech Questions' started by lucky devil, Oct 29, 2018.

  1. lucky devil

    lucky devil Member

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    Gents , has anyone gone from the 1" shaft to 1.25" ? I am guessing the pump and / or gears are different , what machining needs to be done ?

    I have talked to Brunos who suggest sending it to them for the machine work , but as I am in England it adds to the expense.

    Any Experience ?
     
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  2. mogenss

    mogenss Member

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    Hi,

    I updated mine a couple of years ago, there is some drilling in the housing but nothing to difficult.

    Had the same problem as you since Im in denmark :)
     
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  3. Will Hanna

    Will Hanna We put the 'inside' in Top Alcohol
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    There is a train of thought of running the 1 3/16 shaft to get more exhaust flow.
     
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  4. Randy G.

    Randy G. Top Alcohol

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    I just took delivery of a new Quick Drive for my B&J and ordered it with a 1 3/16" shaft. Rod and Travis at SpecRite say the 1.25 shafts don't allow as much fluid flow and the converter runs hotter. The twin turbo guys are running 1 3/16" shafts with no issues. 1.25" is overkill, IMHO, and I won't run one.
     
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  5. lucky devil

    lucky devil Member

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    Thank you for the replies , I know about the flow issues as the shaft size increases..... which begs another question..... which fluid are you all using ?
     
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    Last edited: Oct 30, 2018
  6. Will Hanna

    Will Hanna We put the 'inside' in Top Alcohol
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    Welcome to the dark side of converters. Before long you will be itching to see what one would do in a TAFC. I can save you the money, just come hang out with me. I'm really intrigued about trying some different stuff.
     
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  7. Will Hanna

    Will Hanna We put the 'inside' in Top Alcohol
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    I think in recent years you have not seen the emphasis on fluid as much as it was 8-9 years ago. Lucas, Redline, HPL, LAT and other all offer off the shelf product that works. Depending on what you want the converter to do should influence which you buy.

    I think the later model converter drives and Turbo Glides have a good supply feed that really helps things out.
     
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  8. Randy G.

    Randy G. Top Alcohol

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    Me too. Everyone seems to have a powerglide in these things these days. I spent enough on this set up to buy 4 big shaft powerglides, but at least I get to drive the darn thing. With the three speed B&J my low gear ratio options are unlimited and I can do all the work on it myself. I had Jeff Bohr at Boninfonte make me a titanium bellhousing for it as well.

    Today we finished the trans mount on the slide, mounted the driveshaft shield, made a shift button tower and will be mounting the K&R box. This picture was taken before we mounted and moved everything.

    [​IMG]
     
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  9. Randy G.

    Randy G. Top Alcohol

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    After playing with Dan Nickelson's Jerry Haas Viper 5 years ago which had a Brad 6 motor and a PSI "C" where after messing with a clutch he put a Bruno/Lenco in it, if I were to ever return to TA/FC I would take the set up out of my top sportsman Camaro and drop it in my TA/FC.

    Quick Drive recommends synthetic Dextron type VI in their units while Mike at B&J says to run any cheap type F in the trans.
     
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  10. TOL

    TOL Active Member

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    So this raises a question in my mind......

    Are converter cans all the same size in terms of depth and diameter? How does a person know what size can to ask for?

    For example: Let's say I have a CS2 trans, and I buy a Quick-Drive unit, and I get Marty to build me a custom converter, and I have a CSR flexplate, and my crank has a Hemi flange on the back, and the block is sort of like an Arias 8.3 design.

    Who figures out (or how do they figure out) what size can I need?

    Do I have to get all the parts, and bolt them together, and measure the stack-up? Sorry, just a bit confused here.
     
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  11. Will Hanna

    Will Hanna We put the 'inside' in Top Alcohol
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    If you get a 7.2, it will work with a Lencodrive. I think it takes a .220 spacer to go to the quickdrive. I forget the lock up depth, but it's closer to 8 or 8.125.
     
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  12. Will Hanna

    Will Hanna We put the 'inside' in Top Alcohol
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    With the B&J and a converter, if you have someone give you a light push while you are trying to put it into forward, it makes life much easier.
     
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  13. Randy G.

    Randy G. Top Alcohol

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    The titanium bellhousing for my Quick Drive is 7.5". Between my 1/4" rear motorplate and the bellhousing I have a 1/8" blocksaver. No spacers needed. The only real difference in the bellhousing is no cross shaft for a throw out bearing and the inspection cover is on the bottom to access the converter rather than on top.

    Will, I'm running a K&R box that sets off everything once I release the trans brake button (the button is wired through the K&R box). I need to hit the trans brake button like you would have to push down a clutch pedal in order to shift from forward to neutral to reverse after a burnout or after starting the car to get it in forward gear. Under normal circumstances I would have to hit the reset button on the K&R box to reset everything every time I let go of the trans brake button for any reason because the button is locked out (for safety reasons) by the K&R box for 15 seconds after the first release. I'm thinking of adding a second trans brake button out of normal reach so I don't accidentally hit it wired directly to the Quick Drive solenoid and not through the K&R box. I might mount it on the reverse lever or overhead on the switch panel where sunvisors would go in order to bump the trans brake (I would use a diode to keep power from backfeeding into the K&R box from the second trans brake button). Doing this would eliminate the K&R box and it would work like a normal switch. Have you got any experience in this or better ideas?
     
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  14. lucky devil

    lucky devil Member

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    Hi Randy , I have a switch on the shift tower. In the up position I can use the transbrake button for engaging forward and reverse as normal. Just as I go into stage I flick the switch down and then engaging the transbrake switch for the final time allows the timers etc to start working on the release of the the TB button.
    Regards Wayne
     
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  15. jay70cuda

    jay70cuda Member

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    Why can’t you use a wot switch? That’s how I have my quickdrive setup. Tb button is on my left thumb and works like normal. But the timers don’t start until the wot is activated. No relays, or 2 buttons and extra wiring for weight. And I drove a clutch my entire life. By the end of the first day and 8 passes later it was like second nature , I’ve never accidentally hit the button either. Cutting a light with my left thumb though was harder than it looked. I can go .008 when I need to.
     
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  16. Randy G.

    Randy G. Top Alcohol

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    I'm a right thumb trans brake button kind of guy and my left thumb is for the line lock button. I would have to reach over with my left hand to move the forward reverse lever since I use the trans brake button on the right side of the wheel. But this has me thinking. I could use my left hand/thumb to bump the trans brake button on the right side of the wheel if I used a bypass switch on the shift tower like you said.

    The WOT switch sounds like a good idea, too.
     
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  17. Mike Canter

    Mike Canter Top Dragster

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    If you have a WOT switch then what happens to the fuel and timing if you pedal the car?
     
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  18. sammy christian

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    Seems like people make a big deal out of something so simple.
    A button to bypass the delay/timers has been used for decades by bracket and .90 class racers to back up with pro-brake glides.
    A button on the shifter is as easy as it gets, been using one on Bruno/Lenco for a while, doesn't get any easier. Same hand to tap the button while moving the lever.
     
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  19. Randy G.

    Randy G. Top Alcohol

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    Yea, but us former top alky racers like to make things more complicated than they are because that's what we do. I personally think all those electronic delay gizmos and throttle stops should be thrown in the trash and outlawed. Make the driver's drive the darn things. That's the way we did it back in the 1970's when we bracket raced. All top sportsman is is a fast bracket car anyway.

    Mike Canter, it's carburetors and the timing just sits there where you put it with the timing light back in the pits. Nothing complicated. In TA/FC whenever we pedalled it it didn't restart anything, either.
     
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  20. greenracing

    greenracing Member

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    Mike - the timers are still started from the release of the TB, but only when the WOT is active. The WOT switch is between the TB and the Grid so the Grid only sees the TB go active when your foot is on the floor after you're staged.

    I'm thinking about fitting a switch on the gate lever of the reverse shifter so that when you lift the gate to move the shifter between fwd/neut/rev it activates the TB. That way I don't have to hit another button. Still thinking about this one...
     
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