Breather tank Problem

Discussion in 'Manton Push Rods Top Alcohol Tech Questions' started by outlaw3621, Nov 12, 2018.

  1. outlaw3621

    outlaw3621 New Member

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    Hi.

    I am having a problem with my engine breather tank spraying oil out the breather and all over the underside of the rear of the car.
    The breather tank is 12" x 12" x 10" tall. it has a 2" breather tube in the centre that stops 1-1/4" before the bottom (vertical) of the tank.
    the breather lines are 1-1/4" that go in at the front top and go 90deg inside the tank and also stop about 1" before the bottom.
    The lines that run from the tank at the rear of the car to the rocker covers are 1-1/4" all the way.
    After each run there is oil spray all over the underside of the car. but there is always less than a table spoons or two of oil puke in the tank.

    basic car details.
    41 Willy's Outlaw
    521 BAE
    R980 Wipple 30% over

    Any suggestions.
     
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  2. Bjs344

    Bjs344 Member

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    I have an old TAD tank. Nice looking but did as you described, although the geometry is a little different on mine. I plugged the existing rear facing outlet and cut two holes in the top that I put valve cover breathers into. While in there, I filled the tank (loosely) full of steel wool. I think the steel wool was a big help. You want the vapors to come out without the oil so you have to knock the oil out of suspension.
     
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  3. greenracing

    greenracing Member

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    Is there any baffles between the in and out? If not it seems like with both the in and out lines about an inch off the bottom that anything coming in would just bounce off the bottom and head right up the out pipe. You need a baffle that the vapors need to make their way around to get to the out pipe.
     
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  4. jay70cuda

    jay70cuda Member

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    I had the exact same thing made your taking about. I ended up making the outlet go out from under the car to the rear bumper with a breather on it. Worked great but the track guy didn’t like me dropping fluid under the car . So I cut it and made the outlet come thru the trunk thinking the vapor would evaporate and the fluid would stay at the bottom. Now my chutes have a nice coating of oil on them.....
     
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  5. MaineAlkyFan

    MaineAlkyFan Active Member

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    We run a McKinney tank that is based on the swirl concept. The inlets come in at the top of the tank tangent to the diameter so the incoming puke separates out on the walls of the tank. The drain & the vent are on the bottom of the tank. The vent is a large tube (2" ID) that terminates close to the top of the tank. We run an under tray to catch any overspillage.

    Our first passes put a film of oil all over the back tree area. We now stuff a PIG rag up into the vent as a solids blocker. After a run the rag semi-pushes out, hitting the undertray, but it solved all the overspray issues. We normally see about a pint of puke after a run (including warm-up)

    Topside Of Puke Tank

    Bottomside Of Puke Tank

    Chris Saulnier - Team Tigges
    Mechanic Falls, Maine
     
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  6. jody stroud

    jody stroud ZOMBIE Top Dragster

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    I’m my opinion..... the 90 def down on the inlets is correct but having them stop at 1” from bottom of tank could be a problem. If the tank fills enough to cover the bottom of the Inlets it could blow the fluid up and re aerosol the fluid letting it push out of tank as a vapor. I’d stop the inlets right after they turn down, maybe slant cut them to make them discharge into the wall of the tank somewhat. That should help liquify the fumes. And like other have said put a breather on the outlet. And drain the tank EVERY time you start or run the car. My car will put methanol in the tank even during a warmup. Matter of fact that’s about the only thing that’s ever in my tank. Very little oil if any. #ringpackage
     
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  7. TOL

    TOL Active Member

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    Dumb question alert........

    Has anyone ever put a flowmeter on one of these puke/breather tank outlet to determine what sorts of flows we are dealing with here?
     
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