Nozzles???

Discussion in 'PSI Superchargers Tech Questions' started by blownfever, Jul 29, 2012.

  1. blownfever

    blownfever Member

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    I am still having some trouble with leak % issues... It is alum 540 bbc, bb2 heads, std 14-71 od to the maxx and 990 enderle pump with bird hat..Timing at 34 and No pump loops or high speed....My hat nozzles are cyl 1-2/56, cyl 3-6/54, and 7-8/52 which are in blower.. Port nozzles are cyl 1/48, cyl 2/52, cyl 3-6/46 and cyl 7-8/44... I have a 135 main pill in k-valve and can only get it to leak at 65% on the motor or else it won't run, it rains fuel and won't idle without giving throttle.. Should I try a 140/145 and try to get it to atleast 70% leak or leave it where it is????? I got a base setup from Spud but tried to leak at 70% and couldn't even get it to idle with a 170 main pill, since then I have dropped the hat nozzles 2 or so sizes to even get it to where it is (above).... Everyone tells me to get it 75-80% leak to motor for a good base start but it seems to be way too much fuel for my motor to idle!!!!!
     
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  2. Critical Mass

    Critical Mass Member

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    blownfever,
    If you are raining fuel at idle the first thing that comes to mind is your idle check. Have you checked your idle and port check valve opening pressures? Also, you might try opening your buterflies a little more.
    Joe
     
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  3. Dave Koehler

    Dave Koehler Member

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    Trying to idle too slow?
     
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  4. blownfever

    blownfever Member

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    butterflies are set at .010"!!! Idle ck is 5lb and port 15lb, I will ck again to make sure that is right...
     
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  5. Vhodoo Racing

    Vhodoo Racing New Member

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    Check your metering valve spool is facing the right way as well, not 180* out. We got ours wrong once and had fuel going everywhere, I believe it blocks the idle circuit
     
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  6. kosky racing

    kosky racing Comp Eliminator

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    check

    You sure you got the check in the right way?
     
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  7. Mike Canter

    Mike Canter Top Dragster
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    Blownfever, what is your fuel pressure at idle?
     
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  8. blownfever

    blownfever Member

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    Fuel pressure about 20 at 2000rpm....
     
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  9. TADHemiracer

    TADHemiracer Member

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    Raining Fuel From the Nozzles

    My idle pressure is less than half of what you are running at idle (blown 526 hemi) and my engine will idle at 1,450 rpm although I have it set at about 1,750 but still at 9 pounds. Sounds to me like you have a restricted idle return line or your poppet is set too high. I would reduce the idle poppet pressure to 9 psi and see what happens. Have you actually installed a guage in your system to see exactly what your idle pressure is or are you going by what the poppet holds with air? I have found a difference in actual psi delivered between air and fuel and then it depends on what you count as your "crack" psi.
     
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  10. blownfever

    blownfever Member

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    Brand new gauge from good vibes.. It actually idles at 1200 and shows nothing on gauge but if I steady throttle at 2000 rpm gauge shows about 20!!!!
     
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  11. Dave Koehler

    Dave Koehler Member

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    See post #3
     
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  12. Mike Canter

    Mike Canter Top Dragster
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    Where are you reading the fuel pressure at idle?
     
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  13. blownfever

    blownfever Member

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    Gauge is in distribution block and idle ck is 2-3 lb spring and port is 15-20 spring.... With the info I gave on 1st post it will idle ok with the 135 main pill but can only get to leak 65% if I leak it at 80% it won't idle cause of too much fuel.... Is it ok where it is???
     
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  14. SoDak

    SoDak Active Member

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    What I do with my stuff (tractor pulling) is set them at about %70, then start it and lean until the throttle response suffers and richen a touch from that. This keeps the oil clean (not alky diluted) and isn't too lean. Sometimes you can see a touch of flames (when at night), aka lean.

    I have been very happy with this, for the many years I've been doing it this way.

    Mine are 8's on BBC's and if you check them with a gage they are not all the same...
     
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  15. Mike Canter

    Mike Canter Top Dragster
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    Blownfever, here is something to check. Correct me if I have read anything wrong....You say your idle fuel pressure is 20 psi measured at the distrubutation block which is on the engine side of the BV. I looked at other Racepak data from cars that I know read fuel pressure after the BV and I think that is way high for idle AFTER the BV. The cars I was looking at where either 0 psi or around 5 psi. So if yours reads 20 psi there you said your port check was set at 20 psi. This means that your port check maybe open at idle and you are pumping fuel into the port nozzles at idle. One way to check this is to use several people. Get a half gallon plastic milk bottle and unscrew a port nozzle hose and put it in the milk bottle. Now have somebody fire up the motor and see if you are pumping fuel through the port nozzles at idle and at staging rpm. You should not be. If this is happening the car is going to run real rich. I don't think that increasing the port check is the way to go because I normally run them anywhere between 10 and 20 psi crack pressure. The only way that I know that this could happen is if the BV is bad or the leak down is adjusted incorrectly so that the BV is passing to much fuel. I know that if I tell you to do it my why is going to spark discussion but lets check how you are doing it. The BV leak test is really done only to mark a reference so if anything changes you can return to the same point. The true way to adjust the BV is to move the rod one flat at a time until either the motor goes rich and it blubbers when moving off or idle or going lean until it hesitates off of idle. I prefer to be on the rich side to keep the motor cool so I go rich until it blubbers then go one or two flats lean until it is crisp. Then I check the leak down at that point and record it so I can always return to it. Some people just set it at a value on leak down at that is it. Given the way I check the leakdown I am always around 88 to 92% but what Spud told you maybe right for your setup. So if you don't do it my way then bear with me and try it and see if it makes a difference.
    1. Remove the idle return fuel line from the idle poppet and cap the idle poppet
    2. Remove just one of the main output fuel lines from the BV and leave it open into the BV. (I know this will be a discussion point)
    3. Hookup the leak down tester and dial in 100 psi into the first gauge and read the value on the second gauge while maintaining 100 psi in. Now read the PSI off the second gauge. 8 psi is 92% and 12 psi is 88%.

    Sorry if I am too basic but just trying to establish and apple and apple communications.

    Also, when you set your poppets at 2-3 lbs or 15-20 lbs we are taking crack pressures and NOT wide open pressures....right.

    The other things to also check is that you have .010-.012 gap at the bottom of the butterflies and that your BV arm is aligned with the engraved dot on the BV. You should be idling at 1800-2000 rpm on a blower motor.
     
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  16. blownfever

    blownfever Member

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    I got the barrel valve aligned correctly like you said Mike and it is idling good and crisp on rev.. After running it I checked leak and it's @ 65% or 35 psi on second gauge... I will make a pass like it is and see how it does!! I also got new NGk plugs in it... Thanks to everyone that posted, it is all really helpful
     
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